2-Week Rwanda Gorilla & Big Five Safari Itinerary

After visiting Rwanda in March 2026, I’ve perfected this 2-Week Rwanda itinerary to show you all of what Rwanda has to offer as well as giving you the most ‘bang for your buck’.

I’m going to give you an idea of how much it will cost, the best time to visit and how to find the best safari tour company.

As I walk you through the itinerary, I’ll share tips, tricks and how to avoid some of the mistakes I’ve made.

I’ve also spoken at length with my favourite Rwanda guides as well as conducting copious amounts of additional research to ensure you receive everything you need to know to have the ultimate 2-Week Rwanda safari.

It’s easy to focus only on the fun stuff when planning the trip of a lifetime, but I’ll make sure your itinerary includes the practicalities too, like allowing time to navigate rough roads or building in moments to relax. These details often make all the difference.

Quick Facts

Total drive time (excluding game drives): Around 28 hours over 14 days, averaging 2 hours per day. Day 7 has the longest drive, about 8 hours.

Best times of year: During the dry seasons: June to August and December to February. My favourite time of year to visit Rwanda is the shoulder season in October and November.

Day 2: South Akagera

Drive Time (excluding game drives): 3 hours

Interwoven with lakes and waterways, the densely forested South Akagera marks the southern sector of Rwanda’s largest national park and is the gateway most visitors arrive through. Leaving Kigali this morning, you’ll arrive at the park in time for a cruise on Lake Ihema, the largest of Akagera’s ten lakes.

Map of Akagera National Park

This map I created highlights the main features of Akagera National Park.

Itinerary

After a hearty breakfast, it’s time to bid Kigali goodbye and embark on the roughly three-hour drive east to Akagera National Park. The journey is largely smooth going, though the last hour or so can be fairly rough as the road is currently being resurfaced.

Entering through the main entrance at Kiyonza South Gate, near the park headquarters, you are greeted by dense, lush forest – not an open plain in sight. While this landscape is not conducive to big cat sightings, you should spot plenty of elephants and Cape buffalo along the many water sources.

Late in the afternoon, it’s time for a sunset boat cruise on Lake Ihema, arguably the highlight of any visit to this sector of the park. Packed with hippos, Nile crocodiles and huge monitor lizards, the lake also boasts a plethora of bird species along its shores, including fish eagles, Goliath heron and the rare shoebill stork with its enormous bill.

Tonight, you’ll be staying near the water in the southern sector.

About Akagera National Park

Akagera National Park stands out as one of Africa’s greatest conservation success stories.

In the years following the 1994 Rwandan genocide, many people who had been displaced during the violence settled in the park area and began farming and hunting to survive.

As a result of uncontrolled hunting and poaching in addition to the destruction of natural habitats to create farmland and grazing pastures, a number of wildlife populations collapsed entirely. Previously abundant in the region, lions and rhinos were declared locally extinct.

2010 marked the launch of major restoration efforts under the auspices of African Parks. These endeavours led to the successful reintroduction of lions to the park in 2015, which was followed by the gradual reintroduction of two different rhino species, black and white, from 2017.

Thanks to stringent conservation measures such as anti-poaching patrols and community engagement, wildlife numbers and diversity have increased steadily over the years. Now, Akagera once again houses all of the Big Five: lions, leopards, elephants, buffalos and rhinos.

Through these amazing conservation initiatives, the park has been restored to a world-class safari destination with an incredible diversity of habitats, from lush forest in the south to open savannah in the north. Boasting more than 500 recorded bird species, Akagera is also one of East Africa’s premier birding destinations.

What Wildlife Can I See in Akagera National Park?

Akagera is the only park in Rwanda where you can see all of the Big Five (lions, leopards, elephants, buffalos and rhinos) in a single location.

White Rhino

Abundant

Buffalo

Abundant

Hippo

Abundant

Black Rhino

Occasional

Lion

Occasional

Elephant

Occasional

Giraffe

Occasional

Leopard

Rare

But the park has so much to offer besides, with its diverse habitats supporting an amazing variety of plains game and birdlife. Zebras, giraffes, topis, impalas, waterbuck, eland, warthogs, Uganda kob and sitatunga antelopes are prolific throughout the park, and you’re sure to see plenty of them as you explore.

Akagera’s many water sources also attract huge numbers of birds, with in excess of 500 bird species recorded in the park. These include majestic Goliath herons, fish eagles, grey crowned cranes, pelicans, secretary birds, giant kingfishers and the rare, dinosaur-like shoebill stork.

Lake Ihema is bursting with hippos and Nile crocodiles and is also home to large numbers of enormous monitor lizards.

Tips for Visiting Akagera National Park

Below are my top tips for visiting Akagera National Park!

• Single-use plastics are banned in Rwanda. Be sure to dispose of plastic bags and bottles at the park entrance or transfer liquids into reusable containers before you arrive.
• When booking a cruise on Lake Ihema, opt for the sunset boat cruise instead of the daytime one. Not only is the lighting better for your photos, you’ll also see hordes of water birds returning to Ile Ihema island in the middle of the lake to roost for the night. The sheer number of them is spectacular! And of course, the gorgeous sunset will be the icing on the cake.
• As you travel further north within the park, tsetse flies increase in numbers. These pests are drawn to dark colours, so avoid wearing black or navy. Instead, choose light-coloured, loose clothes that cover your arms and legs, and don’t forget your insect repellent!
• Park fees are about $100 per person per day, including vehicle fees.
• It takes about five hours to drive from the south of the park to the north. To break the journey, you can stop on the shores of Lake Mihindi, where you’ll find a picnic area with clean bathrooms and a kiosk selling freshly brewed coffee.

Optional Activities

• If time allows, I highly recommend doing a behind-the-scenes tour in South Akagera to find out about African Parks and learn the story behind the park’s amazing conservation revival. This incredibly rewarding tour even adapts to reflect live data from rangers on the ground and collared animals for real-time insights.
• Book a night drive for a chance at spotting reclusive nocturnal animals and predators on the prowl.
• The park also offers guided nature walks and birding safaris to discover some of its more than 500 bird species.
• Fishing enthusiasts can also book fishing trips on one of the park’s ten lakes.

Where to Stay in South Akagera

There are two lodges in Akagera’s southern sector. Run and managed by African Parks (the company that runs the national park), Ruzizi Tented Lodge is located right on Lake Ihema. Meanwhile, the comfortable brick-and-mortar Akagera Game Lodge is situated close to the park’s headquarters.

Both lodges are mid-range, with budget-friendly options available outside the park.

Since you’ll be going on a boat cruise shortly after you arrive, I’d recommend Ruzizi as it’s conveniently located directly on the lake.

During my visit to the southern sector, I stayed at Ruzizi because I thought its location was fantastic and I also love tented camps. I don’t think there’s anything quite like drifting off to sleep with the sounds of nature all around; I still remember listening drowsily to the calls of reed frogs, the bellows of hippos and the chirping of crickets, as I lay in my snug bed.

My Experience of South Akagera

For me, the sunset boat cruise on Lake Ihema was nothing short of magical! It was a beautiful calm evening, and the waters of the lake were as smooth as glass, disturbed only when the occasional pod of hippos surfaced for air.

I couldn’t believe the contrast between the graceful, almost elegant hippos in the water and their two clumpier counterparts marching along the banks between the date palms! It was quite comical, really – they seemed like two entirely different species. As well as the hippos, I spotted lots of Nile crocodiles basking contentedly in the shallows.

One particular highlight of the cruise was the amazing variety of birdlife on display, from powerful African fish eagles and striking Goliath herons to agile woodland kingfishers, white-faced whistling ducks, spur-winged geese, hadeda ibis, pied kingfishers, African darters, and more!

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Day 4: North Akagera

Drive Time (excluding game drives): 5 hours

Dominated by the vast Kilala Plain, which is the best place in the park for lion and rhino sightings, North Akagera forms the northern sector of Akagera National Park.

This is where you’ll be headed today as you leave behind the lush forests of the south sector and drive through the park, the landscape changing dramatically as you go. You’ll be staying in the northern sector tonight.

Itinerary

There’s time for one final game drive in the south sector before setting your sights on the north. This morning, you’ll concentrate on the sector’s stretches of open plain in hopes of sighting zebras, topis, impalas and Maasai giraffes. Eschewing the dense forests, which impede game viewing, you’ll also spend some time near the water observing the elephants and Cape buffalo that come by for a drink.

After this, you’ll start making your way north through the park on a five-hour drive, stopping several times along the way for game viewing. As this is a game drive and not a transfer, there’s no time pressure, so you can take your time and enjoy each sighting as it comes.

The shift in terrain is striking, with dense forests melting away and stretches of open savannah taking their place. As the landscape opens up, the number of wildlife sightings increases tangibly. Large Cape buffalo herds cross the road in front of you, baby elephants feed right beside your vehicle and towering Maasai giraffes munch gracefully on acacia trees.

Arriving in the northern sector in the afternoon, you’ll have time to head out on a late afternoon/early evening game drive on Kilala Plain before dinner. The timing is perfect, bringing you out just as the park’s predators begin to rouse from their afternoon naps and prepare to go hunting.

Kilala is like a mini-Serengeti, its vastness all the more striking after the dense vegetation in the south, and the golden evening light makes for spectacular photos. You’ll be spending tonight in the north of the park.

Where to Stay in North Akagera

You’ll be spending tonight in Akagera National Park’s northern sector. As in the south, the northern sector has just two accommodation options within the park: Wilderness Magashi Camp on the shores of Lake Rwanyakizinga and Karenge Bush Camp.

For me, Karenge Bush Camp enjoys the best location of all of Akagera’s lodges. Overlooking the stunning Kilala Plain, it is by far the closest camp to the plain (just 10 minutes’ drive) and offers unbeatable access to Akagera’s most productive wildlife area.

Following extensive renovations in 2024, Karenge Bush Camp is now extremely comfortable, with large, beautifully decorated rooms, indoor and outdoor showers, hot and cold running water and WiFi throughout. The tented rooms at Karenge are some of the finest tented accommodation in Rwanda and are among my favourites of all the tented rooms I’ve stayed in.

That said, Wilderness Magashi Camp is also excellent, with a beautiful location right on the shores of Lake Rwanyakizinga that gives you a totally different perspective on the park.

My Experience of North Akagera

The most striking thing about the drive north through Akagera for me was the dramatic change in the landscape. As we travelled, dense vegetation gave way to open plains and I immediately began looking forward to some big cat and rhino sightings!

The absolute highlight of the northern sector and the epitome of this transformation is Kilala Plain, which far exceeded my expectations. Just as we arrived on the plain, and only a 10-minute drive from our camp, we encountered three lions, two males and one female, sleeping in the middle of the road.

Then, a short distance away, we came across more rhinos than I’d ever seen before! Four of them were grazing calmly on the open plain, and we spotted another three a little further away grazing right beside a slumbering lion, if you can believe it! We soon noticed even more of them on a ridge in the distance, including a mother and calf.

Later on, as the sun was about to set, we met one more male lion, stalking about almost as if hunting some prey. He started to roar, perhaps summoning other pride members, but his calls went unanswered. As a final, beautiful highlight, the sky then turned a dazzling, unforgettable red right before night fell.

When we woke the following morning, the plain was cloaked in a dense mist that reminded me of the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. We left at dawn for our morning game drive, but found ourselves faced with a rather unusual road block! There were two pairs of sleeping rhinos right in the middle of the road, each resting its head on another’s back.

Since off-road driving is prohibited and we didn’t want to disturb these sleeping beauties, we decided to try another route, only to find that it was also blocked by a different group of rhinos!

We ended up having to wait for over an hour until the rhinos decided to move, and only then could we get to the plain. We certainly had some laughs that morning!

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Day 7: North Akagera to Volcanoes National Park

Drive time (excluding game drives): 8 hours

This morning, you can enjoy one final game drive on Kilala Plain before beginning the long drive west across Rwanda to Volcanoes National Park.

Itinerary

This morning, you’ll embark on one last game drive on Kilala Plain before leaving Akagera behind.

As the plain is by far the best place in the entire park for lion and rhino sightings, I’d advise making full use of the early dawn light rather than hurrying off. Look out for white rhinos in particular, as grazing groups are much easier to see in the open grasslands than in the dense forests of the southern sector.

All too soon, though, it’s time to leave Akagera through the northern gate and head west. Your route will bring you west across the country to Kigali before turning north for the city of Musanze, the gateway to Volcanoes National Park.

This drive treats you to another dramatic change in landscape as the craggy volcanic formations and terraced highland farms for which Rwanda is renowned slide into view near Musanze.

You should allow about eight hours for this drive, which is the longest on your itinerary by quite a bit. Arriving in the late afternoon, you’ll head straight to the park to check in. Kigali is just 2.5 hours away.

Tips for Your Journey to Volcanoes National Park

These tips should help make the long drive from north Akagera to Volcanoes National Park a little easier:

• If you’re planning to leave Akagera via its northern gate, you’ll need to coordinate with the park in advance. The northern gate is considered an exit-only gate and isn’t always attended.
• Sooko Xperiences, a coffee house halfway between Kigali and Musanze, is a great stopping point for delicious snacks and drinks and clean bathrooms.

Where to Stay in Volcanoes National Park

All accommodation at Volcanoes National Park is situated outside the park itself but within a 30-minute drive of the park’s headquarters. Located around 2.5 hours from Kigali, the gateway town of Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) serves as the base for trekking expeditions. Accommodation is usually more expensive near Musanze and Volcanoes than in other parts of Rwanda, especially for higher-end lodges.

Virunga Inn Resort and Spa is a great mid-range option, while luxury alternatives include The One and Only Gorilla’s Nest, Singita Kwitonda, Wilderness Sabyinyo and Wilderness Bisate. Each of these properties offers convenient access to the park headquarters, the starting point for both gorilla and golden monkey treks, which depart at 7am sharp.

My Experience of the Journey to Volcanoes National Park

When driving from Kigali to Musanze at the start of the rainy season, we arrived at a section of road that had been washed away by a landslide.

You’re probably thinking “Disaster!” and you’d normally be right, but it actually wasn’t as awful as it sounds because the local community had come together and were doing their best to repair the damage and clean the area up. I thought it was such a beautiful demonstration of real community spirit.

About halfway through the drive, I stopped off at Sooko Xperiences and treated myself to a tasty snack and tea. This wonderful coffee house truly lives up to its rave reviews, with great coffee and snacks as well as spotless bathrooms and even a gift shop that sells souvenirs.

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Days 9-10: Volcanoes National Park (Gorilla Trekking)

Drive time (excluding game drives): None, as you’ll be staying in Volcanoes National Park for both days

For the next two days, you’ll be doing what most people come to Rwanda to do: tracking mountain gorillas on foot. These treks will bring you onto the slopes of the volcanoes themselves, five of them inside the national park and eight across the wider Virunga range. As you’re doing two distinct treks on two separate mornings, you’ll need to reserve two permits ahead of your trip.

Itinerary

Both mornings will start at the park headquarters at 7am sharp. Here, you’ll join your assigned group and meet your guide before your briefing, and then head back to the car and drive to your starting point, which can be anything from 10 minutes to a full hour away.

Tracking takes place in groups of up to 8, accompanied by a head guide and at least one armed ranger who will be looking out for forest elephants and buffalo rather than gorillas.

Volcanoes is home to 12 gorilla families open to visitors, each with its own distinct territory, and the length of your trek will depend entirely on which one you’re allocated. There can be considerable variety in this regard; some can be reached in under an hour, while it takes up to five hours to locate others.

The first stretch consists of pretty simple walking through farmland, but once past the park boundary, the terrain gets steeper.

If it has rained recently, the ground can be very slippery and muddy. From here, you’ll be enjoying quite the workout as you evade stinging nettles and fire ants, thread through trees and duck under low-hanging bushes. While your guide can offer some estimation of how much further you have to go, this can change as you go depending on the movements of the gorillas.

On both days, you’ll be back at your lodge by early afternoon. With no other scheduled activities, you can use your free time to clean your boots and rest your weary legs so you’re fit to do it all over again tomorrow!

As I’ve mentioned, the second trek is a separate activity and as such requires a permit of its own. While the $1,500 per person price tag may give you pause, it gives you access to a second gorilla family in a different corner of the park plus a second walk that may be gentler or considerably harder than the first.

You may be asked what length of trek you would prefer, but as far as I can tell, treks are largely assigned based on how young and fit you look. So when you’re nursing your aching muscles after a challenging 5-hour slog, you can take it as a compliment!

What Wildlife Can I See When Gorilla Trekking?

Take a wild guess! Volcanoes National Park houses around 300 to 350 endangered mountain gorillas, which form 12 habituated families available for public visits.

Mountain Gorilla

Abundant

Chimpanzee

Absent

Golden Monkey

Abundant

Buffalo

Rare

Elephant

Rare

The park has a further 6 habituated families but their contact with humans is strictly for research purposes and is limited to Karisoke researchers, so they are not available for visiting.

It’s important to be aware of the key differences between endangered mountain gorillas and their much more prolific cousin, the lowland gorilla. In terms of numbers, there are about 318,000 lowland gorillas in the wild as opposed to just over 1,000 mountain gorillas.

Mountain gorillas are larger than lowland gorillas, with darker fur, and adult males are about twice the size of females.

Adult males, known as silverbacks due to the silvery fur they develop on their backs as they mature, can reach up to 5.9 feet (1.8 metres) in height and weigh up to 441 pounds (200 kg). Despite their impressive size, though, they are usually quite placid and cannot survive in captivity.

All gorillas live in family groups called troops, consisting of up to 30 members. They spend about 70% of their waking hours eating leaves, and each gorilla’s nose print is as unique as a human fingerprint!

Tips for Gorilla Trekking

Here are my top tips for gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park!

• Hire a porter to help with your bags and assist you on uneven terrain. Costing a minimum of $10 per trek, this provides valuable employment for the local community. Our guide also told us that the employment of porters incentivises locals who would otherwise have limited job opportunities to support conservation efforts and refrain from poaching.
• Safari ants (Dorylus) are native to this area and can deliver a painful bite. I’d recommend wearing gaiters that go all the way up to your knees or heavy trousers tucked into your hiking boots to protect your ankles.
• Always wear long trousers and long sleeves (as this will protect you from both fire ants and stinging nettles) as well as a waterproof jacket and gardening gloves. While walking poles are provided, you may prefer to bring your own for better grip.
• Wearing a face mask is essential at all times when near the gorillas. Since mountain gorillas share about 98% of their DNA with humans, we can transmit diseases to them and vice versa.
• Gorilla trekking permits cost $1,500 per person and should be booked at least 6-12 months in advance in peak season.
• Gorilla trekking is more demanding than golden monkey trekking, particularly in the high altitudes of Volcanoes. If you’re considering a longer itinerary that includes both, I’d recommend starting with golden monkey trekking so your body has time to acclimatise to the altitude.

Where to Stay in Volcanoes National Park

As you’ll be spending both nights in the same lodge you arrived at on Day 7, you won’t need to worry about packing anything between your two treks. See Day 7 for details of all accommodation options around Volcanoes National Park.

If you went with my mid-range suggestion, you’ll be enjoying another two nights at Virunga Inn Resort and Spa. These will be your final two nights at Volcanoes National Park.

My Experience of Volcanoes National Park

To my delight, I was assigned to the Hira gorilla family on my most recent gorilla trekking experience. This family is particularly special because they often have twins, which is a true rarity in gorillas.

After almost 2 hours of pretty demanding hiking on steep, slippery slopes and through dense patches of vegetation, we found the gorillas.

The porters were invaluable along the way, holding my hand in particularly difficult places where I couldn’t manage alone. Although I’m fairly fit, I genuinely don’t think I could have done the trek without them. I stumbled multiple times, but thankfully they always managed to catch me.

When we caught up with the Hira family, we spent an absolutely incredible hour with them. There were so many adorable babies. Clearly there’d been quite the baby boom! We were also treated to the exceptionally rare sight of the great silverback of the family mating with a female.

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Day 12: Nyungwe Forest National Park

Drive time (excluding game drives): None, as you’ll be remaining in Nyungwe Forest National Park for the day

Today brings you into one of Africa’s most ancient rainforests, which harbours some 13 distinct primate species within its 393 square mile (1,019 km²) expanse. But you’re looking for one species in particular: chimps.

The wet conditions within the dense forest, combined with the humidity that hits you at higher altitudes, make chimp trekking a fairly demanding pursuit. Luckily, though, you have the afternoon free to recover afterwards!

Map of Nyungwe Forest National Park

This map I created highlights the main features of Nyungwe Forest National Park.

Itinerary

The first thing to know about chimpanzee trekking is that it involves rising early! Your guide will meet you at reception no later than 5am (or earlier!) before bringing you to the nearby park office so you can be allocated a guide and a chimp group.

Then, you’ll make the hour-long drive in the dark to the starting point for your trek. On my trip, this was located close to Banda Village on the outskirts of the forest, where the chimps had been seen shortly before.

Generally, the trek takes around four hours, and when you locate the chimps, you’ll be able to spend an hour or so observing them. Nyungwe enjoys a solid reputation as Rwanda’s leading chimpanzee trekking destination, and the trails are muddy, steep and rough, so I’d recommend hiring a porter for the morning to assist you as needed.

When your time with the chimps is up, you’ll head back to the safari vehicles. This can be quite an uphill hike depending on how far up the track your driver has managed to park, so be prepared for a lengthy slog!

Once back at the lodge, you’ll have the afternoon to yourself, so you can just relax and enjoy some much-needed downtime after your ultra-early start.

About Nyungwe Forest National Park

Spanning some 393 square miles (1,019 km²), Nyungwe Forest National Park is among Africa’s oldest rainforests and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023.

Thanks to its outstanding biodiversity, the forest supports about 85 mammal species including 13 different primate species, and boasts an impressive 312 recorded bird species to boot.

The rainforest is also renowned for its breathtaking natural scenery and plant life, especially its orchids. In fact, a whopping 200 endemic orchid species have been recorded here, their vibrant colours adding exquisite accents throughout the dense forest. Suspended some 197 feet (60 metres) above the forest floor, the forest canopy walkway is a fantastic way to view the orchids.

What Wildlife Can I See in Nyungwe Forest National Park?

First and foremost, you’ll be seeing primates, with 13 different species calling Nyungwe home. These include around 380 chimpanzees in 3 habituated chimpanzee groups, of which two are available for tracking and one reserved for research.

Chimpanzee

Abundant

Angola Colobus Monkey

Abundant

Black-Fronted Duiker

Occasional

Found exclusively in Africa, wild chimpanzees can live for more than 50 years and form lifelong bonds with family and troop members.

Although they mainly eat fruit and other plant matter, chimpanzees are omnivores and sometimes prey on smaller monkeys, which are also present in large numbers within the forest. The reserve’s 13 primate species include Angola colobus monkeys, L’Hoest’s monkeys, grey-cheeked mangabeys, silver monkeys, red-tailed monkeys and olive baboons.

While Nyungwe is synonymous with primates, it also offers excellent birding, with some 312 recorded bird species, among them a number of endemic species. In fact, it’s one of the best places in Rwanda for birdwatching, with highlights including brilliantly coloured Narina Trogons and Rwenzori turacos, as well as yellow-whiskered greenbuls.

Besides birds and primates, the rainforest also has several small antelope species such as black-fronted duikers, which are sometimes seen walking along the forest roads.

Tips for Visiting Nyungwe Forest National Park

Chimp trekking is an unforgettable experience, but is also very challenging. I’ve put together a few tips to help ensure you can enjoy it to the fullest.

• In addition to the daily park fee of $100 per person, you will need to purchase a chimpanzee tracking permit, priced at $150 per person. If spending two nights in the park, however, you can avail of a discounted park fee of $150 per person for both nights and save a little money.
• I strongly recommend hiring a porter (minimum $10 plus tip) for your chimp trek. Rest assured this is not the lazy way out! The terrain is rough and slippery, and you will undoubtedly need assistance at various points along the way, whatever your fitness level. What’s more, employing porters provides a valuable source of income for the local community. In terms of tips, I’d advise $10 for your head guide plus another $5 for each of the 2-4 trackers.
• Dress appropriately: a rain coat is an absolute must, and you’ll also need sturdy boots and gaiters to stop debris from getting into your shoes. Regardless of the temperature, long trousers and long sleeves are also advisable to protect you from the brambles. Those thorns really hurt!
• If you’re considering the canopy walk, you should be pretty comfortable with heights as it’s 197 feet (60 metres) above the ground in some parts. The walk costs $40 per person.
• Ensure you have plenty of water and snacks for the morning; the very early start combined with the trek itself and the lengthy hike back to your vehicle will all take their toll. No-one likes a hangry hiker!
• As you hike along the forest roads, remember to scan the Newtonia treetops for silver monkeys, Angola colobus troops and L’Hoest’s monkeys.

Optional Activities

• Priced at $40 per person, canopy walks take about 1.5 hours and will bring you across 3 bridges suspended over the jungle canopy. The highest of these is 197 feet (60 metres) above the ground! This is a great activity to plan for after your chimp trek or on a separate day if you’re tired.
• I thoroughly recommend doing a birding walk for a chance at seeing some of Nyungwe’s 312 recorded bird species, including Narina Trogons and Rwenzori turacos.

Where to Stay in Nyungwe Forest National Park

You’ll be staying at Nyungwe Forest National Park again tonight; see Day 11 for details of the range of local accommodation options.

My pick would be Munazi Lodge, as it’s only 10 minutes from the starting points for the canopy walk and chimpanzee trekking trail and also offers the incomparable experience of sleeping in the heart of the unspoilt rainforest.

My Experience of Nyungwe Forest National Park

Chimpanzee tracking was definitely among the most physically demanding activities I pursued during my time in Rwanda. It didn’t help that the road to Banda Village was so muddy, the vehicle ahead of ours got hopelessly stuck and we all had to get out and start trekking early!

This also slowed us down, so our guide was rushing us along to get us there in time to see the chimps in their nest. If they’d arrived into the village, we’d have had to abandon the experience as observing the chimps there isn’t allowed.

When we did catch up with them, the chimps were already on the move and seemed determined to give us a good workout! They led us a merry dance through the rainforest as we crawled through the thick undergrowth, snagged ourselves on thorns and crossed rivers with no bridges, not to mention the regular smacks in the face with damp leaves.

But in the end, it was completely worth it and we enjoyed some amazing moments, such as seeing one chimpanzee turn his friendly pink face towards us as he stood in the open. The trek was exhausting, but absolutely exhilarating.

When it came time to hike back to our vehicle, it became clear that our adventure had not yet ended. Fearing that rain might make the lower track impassable, our drivers had brought the cars high up the hill as a precaution, gifting us a further 2-hour hike, uphill all the way.

Compared to this, the canopy walk was a piece of cake. I was so excited when I spotted a Narina Trogon and Yellow-whiskered Greenbul, though they sped past before I could take a picture! I was looking out for the large, brightly coloured Rwenzori turacos that are commonly sighted in the forest, but unfortunately, I didn’t see one during my visit.

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Day 14: Kigali

Drive time (excluding game drives): Approximately 20 to 30 minutes from Kigali city centre to Kigali International Airport

Your final few hours in Rwanda will be spent in the hilly capital of Kigali, with its clean streets and excellent reputation as one of Africa’s safest cities. You have just enough time for a last look around before it’s time to travel to the airport for your flight home.

Itinerary

I’ve left this last morning of your trip free so you can choose what you’d like to do in Kigali ahead of your departure.

If you haven’t yet been to the Kigali Genocide Memorial, I’d strongly urge you to head there, as it’s an unforgettable experience. The city also has some great craft markets, where you can pick up some locally made woven baskets, fabrics or jewellery to bring home. And of course, there is a wonderful restaurant scene so you won’t go hungry.

If you’re a coffee drinker, you won’t want to leave Rwanda without enjoying one last cup of its famous coffee, so why not stop at one of the cute little coffee houses in the city before you go to the airport?

Don’t forget to arrange transport so you can get from stop to stop during your morning outing, as Kigali is not easily walkable. You should also give yourself about an hour to get to Kigali International Airport, Rwanda’s main international gateway.

The most reliable way to get there is by organising a transfer through your hotel, which will set you back around $45. While boda-boda motorbike taxis are cheap, it’s best to avoid using them for airport transfers as locals advise they are not safe. Be aware that there is also no Uber service in Kigali.

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Rwanda Booking Tips

Rwanda’s safari system has a few unique elements which you should be aware of when booking.

• Gorilla permits: Gorilla trekking permits need to be booked 6-12 months ahead for peak season trips (June to August and December to February) to secure your preferred dates.
• Lodge proximity: When visiting Volcanoes National Park, I strongly recommend booking a lodge near the park headquarters so you’re sure of arriving on time for your gorilla trek. Treks leave park HQ at 7 am and the single-lane road can get rather busy, with a surprising number of cargo trucks using it. You don’t want to get delayed and miss out!
• Protective clothing: Waterproof gaiters are recommended for both gorilla and chimp trekking. While many high-end hotels offer these to guests, you should check in advance with your tour operator so you can bring your own if needed.
• Single operator for border crossings: If your trip will take in both Uganda and Rwanda, a single operator based in Kigali or Kampala can organise a combined trip, including the border crossing. This makes the booking process much simpler.

Financial Protection When Booking Direct With a Local Tour Operator

International travel agents usually have financial protections in place to cover unexpected cancellations or other issues. But you can also enjoy a similar level of protection when booking with a local operator. In particular, paying by credit card or debit card often gives you purchase protection (in the UK, paying the operator directly by credit card gives you Section 75 protection on bookings over £100 and up to £30,000; debit cards only have chargeback, which is weaker and time-limited), while a decent travel insurance policy will cover interruptions to your trip.

Lastly, opting to book with a reputable local safari company that only charges the balance closer to your trip date also helps minimise risk.

Private vs. Group at a Glance

My Recommendation

If your budget permits, I would always recommend going private. I also prefer to limit numbers to 3-4 people when travelling with others as this ensures comfort and flexibility, allowing everyone to move around for a better view at sightings.

A smaller group also means better visibility in general, plus you can change position to get the best possible photographs, which is a priority for me. In addition, I always make sure to request open-sided Land Cruisers as these are even better for photography and help you to feel really close to the wildlife!

My preference: I make a point of booking with local tour operators for the best balance of value and quality with none of the stress of sorting permits, accommodation and transport.

Local operators have invaluable local knowledge and can even organise flights between parks as well as game drives and other arrangements.

My preference: For most of my trips, I usually opt for a mix of accommodation levels. Sometimes I like to spoil myself with a luxury lodge at the start and end of the trip, when I have time to enjoy the extra comfort. Otherwise, mid-range accommodation is usually just right.

My preference: I prefer to visit Rwanda in the shoulder season (October-November) when the weather and wildlife viewing are still good but prices are lower for better value.

My preference: When I visited Uganda, I decided on 2 days of gorilla trekking but I only booked one day in Rwanda due to the higher fees.

On my next visit I’d probably opt for two treks because it’s an amazing experience and sightings vary so widely each day. However, since I found doing two treks in a row fairly tiring, I think I’d leave a rest day in between this time.

My Preference: I typically choose road travel because I can see more of the landscape and it also gives me flexibility if we encounter any wildlife along the way. That said, I would generally opt to fly where the road transfer is longer than 6 hours and a flight is available.

My preference: I prefer travelling in small groups so we can all move about freely for the best views and photos at wildlife sightings. My ideal group size is no more than 3 or 4 people including myself, as it can be hard to find a decent spot in your game drive vehicle with a larger group.

My preference: For me, the shoulder season in October and November is the perfect time to visit Rwanda. Weather conditions are usually pleasant, the gorilla trails at Volcanoes are less busy, and accommodation prices are lower than in peak season.

However, do bear in mind that some rain is possible during this period, which can make hiking trails a little more difficult. But my own view is that a little mud adds to the charm of the experience. After all, what’s the point of having hiking boots if you’re not going to get them dirty?

That being said, while October is my favourite time to go to Rwanda, that doesn’t necessarily mean it will be ideal for everyone. Read on for a more in-depth look at the considerations and advantages to be weighed for each time of year, so that you can choose the time that works best for you.

Quick Facts

Prices: Peak season, premium prices

Weather: Hottest season with sunny, dry days and occasional rainfall, daytime temperatures 75-91°F (24-33°C)

Wildlife: Abundant at Akagera. With gorillas in Volcanoes National Park moving to higher elevations to escape the heat, treks and even the drives to their starting points can be longer

Birding: Local species joined by northern hemisphere migrants. Main breeding and nesting season

Unique features: Calving season with young animals visible across the parks

Quick Facts

Prices: Lowest prices with substantial discounts on accommodation

Weather: Wet season. Daytime temperatures 61-82°F (16-28°C), colder at higher elevations

Wildlife: Abundant, but dense greenery and rain can make viewing challenging

Birding: Abundant native and migrant species, but thick vegetation can block viewing

Unique features: Rich green landscapes with wildflowers

Quick Facts

Prices: Peak tourist season, highest prices

Weather: Warm, mostly dry days with cooler mountain areas. Daytime temperatures 64-82°F (18-28°C)

Wildlife: Abundant. Dry conditions draw animals to water sources in Akagera

Birding: Excellent, diverse species present.

Unique features: Dry trails mean good hiking conditions for gorilla trekking. Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony in early September at Volcanoes

Quick Facts

Prices: Lower than peak seasons

Weather: Mostly light rainfall with some heavier downpours. Daytime temperatures 61-84°F (16-29°C)

Wildlife: Abundant but more dispersed. Gorillas in Volcanoes National Park descend to lower altitudes

Birding: Mating and nesting season with colourful plumage on display. Migrants arriving

What Two Weeks in Rwanda Gets You

• Akagera National Park (5 days): Big Five game drives across the southern and northern sectors, lions and rhinos on Kilala Plain, a boat cruise on Lake Ihema
• Volcanoes National Park (4 days): Two gorilla treks, each including a full hour with a habituated gorilla family, golden monkey trekking in the bamboo forests, and views across the Virunga volcanic chain
• Lake Kivu (half a day): A relaxing break between the primate parks, with boat trips to the islands and views across the water to the DRC
• Nyungwe Forest National Park (3 days): Chimpanzee trekking through one of the oldest rainforests in Africa, a breathtaking canopy walk some 197 feet (60 metres) above the forest floor, and 13 primate species
• Kigali (2 days): Explore the capital on your arrival and departure days, visiting the Genocide Memorial, and sampling Rwandan coffee culture before heading into the parks or boarding your flight home

My preference: For me, the ideal length for a safari in Rwanda is seven to ten days.

Seven or more days allows you to include both chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe Forest and Big Five safaris in Akagera, while you’d have to forgo one for a shorter itinerary. It also enables you to spend more than a single night at each location so you can soak in the magnificent nature around you at your leisure.