Maasai Mara National Reserve & Conservancies – Safari Guide

Did you know Kenya’s Maasai Mara hosts one of the densest populations of wildlife on Earth?

With its high population of apex predators such as lions and cheetahs and its annual hosting of the great wildebeest migration, it’s easy to see why the Maasai Mara is considered one of the top safari destinations in the world.

In my experience, the Maasai Mara is well deserving of its reputation. Seeing the Big Five across a five day safari as well as six individual cheetahs, a leopard feeding right by our car and more lions than I can count, I’ve had some of my best ever wildlife sightings here.

The name Maasai Mara comes from the native Maasai tribe. The ‘Maasai’ in the name refers to the tribe itself (Maa speaking Sai people) whilst ‘Mara’ means ‘spotted’ (referring to the terrain. Grasslands spotted with the odd tree) in their language.

Maasai Mara Map

About The Maasai Mara National Reserve

Below we’ll delve into everything you need to know about Kenya’s top national reserve as well as one of the top safari destinations on earth.

If you’re in a rush you can jump to my sections on The Great Wildebeest Migration, Maasai Mara Wildlife and How to Book Your Maasai Mara Safari.

If you’d like to see exactly what a Maasai Mara safari experience is like, I highly recommend watching the full YouTube video of my experience below.

In What Country is the Masai Mara?

The Maasai Mara National Reserve lies in the south-western corner of Kenya.

Jump to the Map here.

Kenya is located above Tanzania on the east coast of Africa and spreads across both sides of the equator.

With a mild tropical climate, natural beauty, rich cultures, abundant wildlife and an efficient infrastructure, it’s easy to see why Kenya is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Africa.

Bordering with neighbouring Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park to the south, the Maasai Mara National Reserve forms part of the overall Serengeti Ecosystem and is within the northernmost reaches of the Great Wildebeest Migration.

The Maasai Mara boasts a diverse and dense populations of wildlife all year round.

How Big is the Maasai Mara National Reserve?

The Masai Mara National Reserve is 583 square miles (1,510 km²) in size, however, you can almost double that when you include the 14 conservancies which surround the main reserve.

This size makes the core Maasai Mara Reserve one of Africa’s smaller National Reserves and mid-sized compared to Kenya’s other reserves.

Compared to the neighbouring Serengeti National Park, the Maasai Mara is 1/10th of the size – you could fit the Maasai Mara 10 times into the Serengeti.

I’ve created a table below to show how the Maasai Mara National Reserve (excluding conservancies) compares in size with Africa’s top safari reserves.

In Kenya, Tsavo National Park’s East and West sections, comes in at over 8,494 miles² (22,000 km²), making it by far the largest park in Kenya and also among the largest in Africa.

Amid Maasai Mara’s other local competitors, Amboseli National Park is only about a quarter of the size of Maasai Mara, and yet its huge herds of elephants have earned it its nickname of the ‘Home of the Elephant’ making it also one of the most famous and most visited parks in Kenya.

The table below shows how the Maasai Mara compares in size with Kenya’s other top safari reserves.

Despite its relatively small size, the Masai Mara has a much higher density of lions compared to the many larger parks in Kenya and Africa.

The Maasai Mara is mid-sized for Kenya and at the small end of the scale, Lake Nakuru National Park stands at a mere 73 miles² (188 km²). However, the park is packed with wildlife and natural beauty and is a popular addition to a Kenya safari itinerary.

Why Is the Maasai Mara So Famous?

The Great Wildebeest Migration, Big Five sightings, density of lions and conservation efforts are some of the key things which make the Maasai Mara famous.

The Great Wildebeest Migration is one of the wonders of the natural world and takes places thought the year as 1.5 million wildebeests travel across the Serengeti-Masai Mara ecosystem, culminating in the dramatic crocodile-infested Mara River crossing between Tanzania and Kenya and then back again.

The Mara River Crossing can be viewed from both the Masai Mara and Serengeti.

You can see all of the Big Five in the Masai Mara and the density of lions is some of the best of any reserve, with as many as 25-30 lions per 100 sq km in the Masai Mara’s prime lion viewing areas.

Across the whole Masai Mara the estimate of 5 lions per 100 sq km compares very well with other reserves inside and outside of Kenya.

Jump to the lion density comparison chart here.

Lions, leopards, cheetahs and hyenas are top of the food chain here and are common sightings on most game drives. I can’t tell you how many lions I saw in a single day in the Maasai Mara!

Conservation efforts are another special feature of the Maasai Mara with vets on call to help endangered injured animals and rangers to protect wildlife vulnerable to poaching.

The 14 private conservancies surrounding the Maasai Mara are another special feature of the reserve.

Conservancies such as Mara North are owned by the local Maasai tribes people who collect rent from safari lodges. The conservancies provide a similar Masai Mara experience but with a lower numbers of tourists compared to the main reserve. They are, however, typically more expensive to visit due to the luxury camps and lodge accommodation.

History of the Maasai Mara

The Maasai Mara has certainly been through a lot over the years. We’ll delve into some of its key historical moments below.

How Was the Maasai Mara Formed?

Lying within the Great Victoria Lake Basin, the landscape of the current Maasai Mara National Reserve consists of ancient rock, volcanic lava and eroded ground and lake deposits, dating back to over 600 million years ago.

Fast forwarding through the millennia, the volcanic nutrient-rich soils resulted in the creation of a most fertile and multi-ecosystem landscape, which became home to one of the most diverse and dense concentrations of wildlife on our planet. 

The Arrival of the Maasai

Fast forwarding again to around the 15^th century, the numerous nomadic tribes that had migrated from the north and settled in these fertile lands were dominated by another stronger tribe that began arriving a little later – the Maasai.

Some of the existing tribes were wiped out completely by the fearless warriors of the Maasai, while others were absorbed into their tribe.

The vast open plains provided ample grazing for their cattle and the endless abundance of game and freshwater, allowed the Maasai to enjoy their semi-nomadic and pastoral lifestyles for several centuries, harmoniously co-existing with the wildlife until the arrival of the European Colonials in the late 19^th century.

The Dark Part of the Maasai Mara’s History

To cut a long story short, the Maasai began losing tracks of land to make way for agriculture and for the big game hunters that began pouring into East Africa. The Maasai tribe were continually evicted from their ancient lands and moved around to less fertile lands.

After a long period of mass slaughtering of many of the animals, it became evident that the fast-vanishing wildlife needed to be protected.

In 1961, after some serious negotiations between the British Colonials, European settlers and the Maasai themselves, an agreement was finally reached to establish a sanctuary for the wildlife, which was named the Maasai Mara in honour of the famous tribe that had already been its custodian for centuries.

Protecting the Maasai Mara and its Wildlife

Initially, an area of only 201 square miles (520 square kilometres) was allocated, but that was soon extended to 583 square miles (1,510 square kilometres) in order to create secure animal corridors for the migratory herds from the Serengeti in the south, to reach the greener pastures of the northern plains of the Maasai Mara. In 1974 the Maasai Mara achieved national reserve status.

The story of the Maasai Mara does not end there. To create more wildlife spaces without affecting the livelihoods of the Maasai communities, an initiative was launched in which the landowners who lived in and around the reserve would remove their cattle and structures and lease their land to the park, converting it into what is known as a conservancy area.

The end result was a win-win where the landowners would receive a monthly income from the lodges operating on their land, allowing them to uplift their communities, while the lodges provide employment to the locals and top-notch accommodation and private safari experiences by limiting the number of guests.

The once overgrazed landscape was soon transformed into wilderness spaces which soon brought back the wildlife and almost doubled the size of the overall Maasai Mara Ecosystem. The conservancies remain unfenced allowing the free movement of animals across the entire ecosystem and does not hinder the migratory herds.

This collaboration between culture and conservation has resulted in the formation of the Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association, (MMWCA) which now manages no less than 24 conservancies owned by 15,000 owners, covering a whopping 695 square miles (1,800 square kilometres) and bringing in millions of dollars to the local economy each year.

One of the first conservancies to be established is a most important area on the south-western corner of the reserve, known as the Mara Triangle. Established in the early 2000s it is run by the MMWCA on behalf of the Trans-Mara County Council. 

The overall Maasai Mara Ecosystem is owned and managed by the Narok County Government.

The Maasai Tribe

The Maasai Mara is named after the Maasai tribe who inhabited the lands for several centuries. The ‘Mara’ part of the name is thought to refer to the spotted landscape on the savannah with the occasional bush.

The word Maasai translates to Maa speaking people. ‘Maa’ is the name of their language and ‘sai’ means people.

The Maasai tribe originated from North Africa and began arriving in modern day Kenya and Tanzania through Sudan from the 16^th century onwards.

The fertile volcanic soils and grasslands and the abundance of water of their newly discovered territory were ideal grazing grounds for their cattle and perfectly suited their semi-nomadic and pastoralist lifestyle.

Settling there, their fearsome warriors soon began to dominate the numerous other tribes that had also migrated from the north, in the process, depopulating vast areas in south-eastern Kenya including what we now know as the Maasai Mara.

Even heavily armed slavers and British troops, who arrived much later, avoided all contact with them.

Not a single Maasai was ever captured or taken into slavery.

However, with the arrival of the European colonials during the late 1800s, their destiny was to be changed forever. During that period, drought, cholera and a smallpox epidemic wiped out two thirds of their population, while a rinderpest outbreak decimated almost all the buffalo and wildebeest as well as their own cattle, which was their only form of wealth.

Within a few years, the proud and mighty Maasai were reduced to starvation and near extinction.

Having lost much of their land to European settlers, their grazing lands were converted into farms and wildlife sanctuaries, while they were relocated to less fertile regions of Kenya and Tanzania. Their plight was to continue for another century or so.

And yet, despite all their tribulations, the Maasai have managed to survive and cling onto many of their ancient customs and traditions and today, they are one of the most extraordinary and famous tribes in the world.

Perhaps, not as nomadic as they used to be, they remain pastoral and almost entirely dependent on their cattle and goats and some crops, mostly maize, rice and sweet potatoes.

Their fearsome warrior reputation still remains intact, although the old practice of young boys having to kill a lion using only a spear before becoming a man, is no longer done. Today, they only kill lions that attack their cattle and education is even slowing down this practice.

What are the Positives and Negatives of Tourism in Maasai Mara?

Lets taker a quick look at the pros and cons of tourism in Kenya and the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

The Great Wildebeest Migration in the Maasai Mara

The Great Wildebeest Migration is one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on earth and the highlight of the migration, the Mara River crossing, can be viewed from the Masai Mara in Kenya as well as the Serengeti in Tanzania.

The main advantage of witnessing this spectacle from the Maasai Mara rather than from the Serengeti side, is that the river Maasai Mara river crossing sites are much quicker to get to from Nairobi than it is from Arusha on the Tanzanian side.

From Nairobi in Kenya its around 6 hours drive to the Mara River crossing, whereas from Arusha in Tanzania it’s more like 10 hours drive.

The Great Migration spends 9 months of the year in the Serengeti, so if you want to see the Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara you would need to visit between mid-July and mid-October.

The timing of this enormous journey depends on the arrival and ending of the rains so dates are just estimates.

The Great Migration has no official starting or end point, but is rather one continual circuit in a clockwise direction, from the southern Ndutu plains of the Serengeti National Park to the Maasai Mara National Reserve across the Mara River.

The Great Migration in Kenya Between July and October

Before entering the Maasai Mara, the herds if wildebeests need to cross their biggest and most treacherous obstacle on their entire journey – the Mara River.

They usually begin arriving on the southern banks of the Mara River from around August and September, where they often hang around for days or weeks on end, before they gather enough courage to leap into the often fast-flowing and crocodile-infested waters and cross to the other side.

What follows in the process is absolute pandemonium. 

Many animals end up in the jaws of hungry crocodiles, while others get trampled on the high steep banks and ledges by the stampeding herds or are swept downstream by the currents and eaten by predators and scavengers.

This chaotic spectacle is not only eagerly awaited by the crocs in the river, but by thousands of tourists who gather on specific viewing sites on both sides of the Mara River during this period.

For some unexplained reason, some herds are often seen crossing back and forth across the river several times before eventually heading towards the lush grasslands of the Maasai Mara.

The wildebeest are always the first to set off on the migration, followed shortly by the zebras and the various antelope, which, by the way, make up over half a million animals.

All along the journey, the wildebeest prefer to graze on the long grasses, leaving the short grasses for the zebras and antelope to graze on. All in all, they keep the grasslands in trim, nourishing the soils with their dung and ensuring new and healthy regrowth when the rains finally arrive.

Animals in the Maasai Mara National Reserve

The Maasai Mara is reported to have around 100 resident large mammal species with additional seasonal migratory species and around 500 bird species.

There are an estimated 200-400 lions in the Masai Mara reserve as well as a high concentration of other big cats such as leopards, cheetahs.

Sighting of all of the Big Five are possible in the Maasai Mara and I’ve managed to see all five in the reserve.

The table below compares lion densities (which equates to how likely you are to see a lion) in some of the most popular reserves in Kenya.

The Masai Mara sits near the top with 5 lions per 100 km² and as many as 25-30 per 100 km² in prime lions viewing areas.

Lion, buffalos and elephants are often spotted on safari, whilst leopards are more illusive, meanwhile the critically endangered rhinos are the hardest to find.

As of a recent census carried out by the WWF in 2021, the Maasai Mara Ecosystem’s rich wildlife also includes 2,600 elephants, 1,600 buffalos, 37,000 wildebeest, 32,000 zebras, 10,000 impalas and over 8,000 Thompson’s Gazelles. The numbers of wildebeest, zebras and some antelope species will fluctuate during the Great Migration.

Other key wildlife in the Maasai Mara includes hippos, Nile crocodiles and giraffes.

There are however, many other smaller, perhaps not as famous, but equally fascinating animals that you could also see in the Maasai Mara.

These include, the charismatic and often stroppy honey badger, who is never shy to take on a whole pride of lions and still walk away unscathed, cute bat-eared foxes, the bizarre looking pangolin, which is among the cutest but most critically endangered species in the world, and warthogs, which are always seen running flat out tails erect with a row of piglets in tow.

What is the Main Animal of Maasai Mara?

Whilst wildebeests dominate in numbers, the Maasai Mara is famed for its big cats.

When the Great Wildebeest Migration is present in the Maasai Mara, the main animal found here is the wildebeest.

From mid-July to mid-October over a million wildebeests pour into the park on their annual migration from the southern plains of the Serengeti in Tanzania. Close behind the wildebeest are zebras, whose numbers also swell for a few months during the migration.

The real stars most people come here to see are the big cats and more especially, lions. Lion sightings are almost guaranteed on every game drive. 

During the annual migration they become more active, coming out to feed on the sudden abundance of prey, and it’s when you stand a good chance of witnessing a kill.

Big cats favourite food are wildebeest and zebra, but when conditions are right, they are not shy taking down bigger prey like a powerful buffalo, which may weigh anything up to 1,000 kgs.

Although cats, unlike herbivores, don’t have a specific breeding season, the ease and availability of food during the annual migration is their best time to raise their families. Spotting prides of up to about 20 members with dozens of little cubs in tow is more frequent during this period.

The vast open grasslands of the Maasai Mara are also perfectly suited for high-speed chases and it’s where you’re most likely to see cheetahs roaming and perhaps with cubs too. The Musiara Swamps around the north-western border of the reserve, where the Marsh Pride and other BBC cats were filmed, is a favourite haunt of lions, leopards and cheetahs.

What are the Rarest Animals in the Maasai Mara?

Black Rhinos in the Maasai Mara

The black rhinos top the list of rare animals in the Maasai Mara and in most other parks across the whole of Kenya. Although there are estimated to be 30 – 50 black rhinos in the reserve, they prefer to spend most of their time well-concealed among thick bushes, and, despite their large size, they are often difficult to spot.

Sighting a black rhino in the Maasai Mara is regarded as a special treat. I was extremely lucky to see one in the Mara Triangle.

This animal has borne the brunt of heavy poaching across the whole of Africa for close to 100 years now and has been hunted to near or complete extinction in many areas of the continent. The good news however, is that despite it still being on the critically endangered list, numbers are on the increase due to the implementation of some serious and strong-armed conservation measures.

Pangolins in the Maasai Mara

One animal whose numbers are dwindling at an alarming rate, is the little-known pangolin. 

This cute little fellow is being heavily poached for its scales and its meat, which is regarded as a delicacy in the Far East. Like rhino horn, its scales are made of keratin which is falsely believed to hold medicinal properties in the Far East.

After the pangolin populations declined seriously in Asia, attention was turned onto Africa, resulting in a sharp increase in illegal trafficking to Asian countries. Pangolins currently sit top on the list of endangered animals.   

Protected by their suits of armour and long sharp tails, they go about their business foraging for termites, playing a huge role in preventing forest destruction and maintaining the ecosystem. When disturbed, they roll themselves into a tight impenetrable ball and other animals usually just leave them alone.

Being small in size, keeping close to the ground and being active mainly at night, makes this creature a rare but joyous sight, even for experienced trackers in the Maasai Mara.

Wild Dogs in the Maasai Mara

Sightings of wild dogs were fairly common in past years in the Maasai Mara, but today they are also extremely rare.

Huge efforts are being made to bring back these super intelligent and efficient hunters, but loss of habitat and increasing human-wildlife conflict are just two factors that need to be addressed. 

The biggest problem however, comes from domestic dogs that live in the nearby communities. Outbreaks of rabies and canine distemper thought to have been transferred from these domestic animals, have decimated the populations of wild dogs. 

Currently, the northern conservancies of the Maasai Mara provide the best opportunity to see these endangered creatures.

Lions and Prides in Maasai Mara

Among all of the big cats and also all the other animals found in the Maasai Mara, the lion is perhaps the most admired. Today, nearly 300-400 lions roam freely in the plains of the Maasai Mara.

The Maasai Mara lions drew the attention of two filmmakers Simon King and Jonathan Scott who produced a documentary series on BBC television, tracking the lives of big cats in the park. What was originally intended to be a one-off series in the mid-1990s turned into a most popular long-running series titled ‘Big Cat Diaries’ spanning over 20 years.

Chronicling the lives of several prides of lions over the generations, the producers developed personalities giving names to particular cats, and capturing the hearts of millions of viewers across the world. This series led to a number of spin-off documentaries, which we still watch on our screens to this day.

Among the several prides that were filmed, included the Gorge Pride, the Topi Plain Males and the most famous pride in the entire series known as the Marsh Pride having originated in the Musiara Marshes in the north-western region of the Maasai Mara. The dynasties of these prides were to become intricately intertwined with each other for generations to come.

Among the leading personalities were Notch, an eight year-old male who was the leader of the Marsh Pride when the series started way back in 1996, and who sired several litters during his reign.

Notch and his sons went on to become one of the most famous lion coalitions in history.

Today there are dozens of lion prides in the Maasai Mara. The most famous coalition is perhaps the Black Rock Boys who dominate the Rongai Pride. The Black Rock Boys have been dominant males for years and revered for their buffalo-hunting skills.

Can I see the Big Five in the Maasai Mara?

You certainly can! Every member of the Big Five, which consists of lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino can be seen in the Maasai Mara all year round. 

During a multi-day Maasai Mara safari you have a high change of seeing lions, buffalos and elephants. However, Rhinos and leopards can be a little more challenging to spot and may required 3 – 5 days in the reserve to maximise your chances.

The most difficult to see are black rhinos with only 35-50 in the entire ecosystem. However, with the assistance of a knowledgeable guide, it is possible. I’ve been lucky enough to see them on one occasion.

The Maasai Mara’s rhinos are usually solitary and shy creatures and are usually spotted on their own or with a calf at their side away from other animals, grazing on the ground or browsing on bushes and small trees across the entire landscape.

Leopards are also solitary creatures and their secretive nature and their preference to hunt at night, makes them difficult to spot.

In the middle of the day they are usually found resting perfectly camouflaged in trees and it may take the trained eye of a guide to spot them. The Maasai Mara is one of the best places in Kenya to spot them. 

Some studies estimate only 30 or so leopards live in the reserve, while others believe that there are a lot more.

Is Maasai Mara Good for Birdwatching?

With close to 500 species of birds including many raptors recorded in the Maasai Mara, this reserve is a birder’s paradise.

The multi-ecosystem landscape of the Maasai Mara provides ideal habitats for a wide variety of species, ranging from the giant ostrich to the tiniest and exquisitely coloured bee-eater.

Among the long list of raptors you’ll find numerous eagles, which include African fish eagles, snake eagles and the martial eagle with its wingspan of around 2.6 metres making it the largest of all eagles in Africa. Other birds of prey include a wide range of kites, hawks, harriers, buzzards, falcons, kestrels, owls, vultures and secretary birds.

Around the wetland areas of the park, hamerkops, African darters, spoonbills, herons, marabou storks, sandpipers, geese and a large number of colourful kingfisher species, are frequently sighted.

Hugging the ground you can expect to find ground hornbill, Kori bustard, Coqui francolin, storks, crested cranes, the difficult to see spotted thick knee and the stunningly beautiful vulturine guinea fowl, which is the largest of all guinea fowls.

Flitting in and out of the canopy, crowned hornbills, hoopoes, cuckoos, woodpeckers, nightjars, parrots, weavers, the colourful superb starling and the beautifully marked Usambiro barbet, which is strictly endemic to the Maasai Mara and Serengeti, are some of the most commonly species here. 

Another much-admired resident is the exquisitely decorated lilac-breasted roller, which features prominently on the covers of so many bird books and park brochures.

Although most resident bird species can be seen all year round in the Maasai Mara, the period between November and through to April is the best time for birders to visit.

This period is the courtship, mating and nesting season for most species, when they are all in their brightest plumage with the males carrying out their fancy courting rituals. 

This period also coincides with the arrival of numerous northern hemisphere species which migrate here each year to escape the bitterly cold winters of Europe and Asia. Unfortunately this is also the wettest season in the Maasai Mara.

Wildlife Conservation in the Masai Mara

Conservation efforts in the Maasai Mara focus on addressing poaching, habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict. Most initiatives involve collaboration between government bodies, NGOs and local communities.

Key species being protected include lions, cheetahs and black rhinos.

The Mara Predator Conservation Program runs a Collars for Conservation Project. Using collars fitted with satellite tracking devices, they are able to track and monitor the movements of many predators, identifying their preferred habitat, movement corridors and raise alarms if an animal becomes stationary. This may indicate that the animal may be distressed, injured or dead and veterinary teams are immediately sent out to investigate.

The Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust have trained 194 rangers since 2013, they are constantly engaging and building relationships with the local communities gathering valuable information on any possible poaching activities. Along with their foot patrols, they have decreased poaching by 11% and have made numerous arrests, helping to protect the wildlife not only in the Maasai Mara but elsewhere in Kenya too. 

Unlike so many parks and reserves around the world, endangered animals within the Maasai Mara are treated for injuries. Teams of vets are often deployed as soon as they hear about an animal with injuries, such as lions or cheetahs. Vulnerable animals such as cheetahs with young cubs are also closely monitored at all times.

Threats facing the Masai Mara

There are a number of key threats to the Masai Mara which we’ll cover briefly below as well as the current solutions being implemented.

Poaching of high value species including rhinos and elephants is a problem due to demand for their horns and horns in traditional Chinese medicine. Rangers protect the endangered rhinos around-the-clock and income from tourism helps to fund this expensive protection.

Human-wildlife conflict continues to be a problem when lions and other predators often come into contact with the Maasai cattle, resulting in retaliatory killings. The Lion Trust Fund employs ‘lion ambassadors’ go out to the communities raising awareness and trying to find ways for a peaceful co-existence and mitigate human-lion conflict.

Ever since 1977, trophy hunting has been banned in Kenya. However, as there are no physical barriers between Kenya and Tanzania, animals roam freely between the two countries and are always running the risk of being killed once they cross the border, as Tanzania still grants hunting permits to wealthy overseas hunters.

The recent killings of three super tuskers, which had crossed into Tanzania from the Amboseli National Park in Kenya, sparked off a war of words between the two countries, with conservationists calling for the curbing of hunting activities in Tanzania. The killings broke an unofficial moratorium agreed to in 1995 on hunting elephants near the Kenyan border.

Over-tourism has become an issue at peak periods on the Maasai Mara and this is being tackled by increased park fees. This is reminiscent of Botswana’s high cost, low impact tourism model,
which aims to minimise environmental impact while maximising conservation funding.

It’s worth remembering that without tourism, there would be little to no funding to protect the Maasai Mara so tourism is essential for the protection of the reserve but at the same time it needs to be done sustainably.

Finally, climate change is a risk to the Serengeti-Masai Mara ecosystem with altered rainfall effecting migration timings, water availability and vegetation growth. We’ll have to wait and see how Kenya addresses this particular issue.

Weather & Climate in the Maasai Mara

Located just south of the equator, some people may think that the weather in the Maasai Mara National Reserve is always warm. 

That may be true for the low lying and coastal areas of East Africa, but in the highlands of Western Kenya and at an elevation reaching more than 1,800 metres above sea level, it can get pretty chilly, especially at night and during early morning game drives.

January and February are usually hot and dry, March to May being extremely wet, while June to October being generally close to perfect, with mild temperatures during the day, virtually no rain and loads of sunshine. November and December are hot and wet, although most of the rains are light and occur in the afternoons. In a nutshell, that’s about it. 

However, as a result of climate change, the weather in the Maasai Mara is becoming more unpredictable, as seen when devastating floods occurred in April 2024.

What is the Best Time to Visit the Maasai Mara?

The Maasai Mara is pretty much an all year round safari destination with each season having something different to offer. However, the long rainy season is best only for experienced travellers.

The seasons in the Maasai Mara are not defined by change in temperatures, but by the arrivals and ending of the rains. Below are the  four periods and what to expect during each. This will help you decide the best month for your safari.

January and February (Short Dry Season)

This is regarded as the short dry season and is an excellent period to visit the Maasai Mara. 

March to May (Long Rainy Season)

This period is known as the long rains and is the wettest period of the year, with April generally being the wettest month. 

Once the rains arrive, the dry dusty plains are transformed into a lush and vibrant landscape with all the shades of green you can imagine. It is also known as the ‘Green Season’.

Some lodges and camps also close during this period. The Kenyan floods in early 2024 were particularly destructive in the Maasai Mara, flooding many areas, making roads inaccessible and stranding thousands of tourists and local inhabitants for weeks.

The regeneration of the landscape and the abundance of herbivore youngsters ensures the presence of big cats and other predators making it an excellent time to witness some dramatic kills and high speed chases.

June to October (Long Dry Season)

This is known as the long dry season and is generally considered the best time of the year to visit the Maasai Mara, with the only negative aspects being that the park gets pretty crowded and accommodation rates are at their peak.

Early mornings and evenings can get pretty chilly in the Maasai Mara, with temperatures dropping to 10° C (50° F) at times, making warm clothing necessary when going on safari. It’s advisable to dress in layers on game drives, and gradually peel them off as the day warms up.

For game viewing, this period is virtually perfect. The short and dry savannahs and sparse vegetation make spotting animals easier, and the lack of water means that most animals can be found around the diminishing watering holes and rivers.

For birders, this may not be the best time of the year as all the migratory species have long since gone, but the great weather and sparse shrubbery make viewing of the numerous residents easier.

Mid-July sees the arrival of the migratory herds as they begin to cross the crocodile-infested Mara River and is one of  the highlights of the Great Migration.

The sudden arrival of so many wildebeest and zebras on the plains of the Maasai Mara brings out a lot of big cat activity.

November to December (Short Rainy Season)

This period is known as the short rains and is a good time to visit the Maasai Mara for a number of reasons.

Although most of the wildebeest herds may have left, there are still a large number of permanent resident animal species around and the calving season begins in earnest with related  big cat activity.

Is the Maasai Mara Crowded?

Due to its smaller size and high popularity the Maasai Mara can get crowded during the peak periods. However, in July 2024, park fees were doubled for the peak period which will have reduced crowding.

The conservancies surrounding the Masai Mara have fewer visitors as the only people allowed to go on safari there are visitors staying at the very limited number of lodges located in the conservancies.

However, when you stay in a conservancy you will typically go on safari in that conservancy as you would have to pay a second lot of fees for the main reserve.

How Many Days Should I Spend in the Maasai Mara?

Whilst you can get away with as little as one full day, I would recommend spending 3 – 4 days in the Maasai Mara.

The Reserve is Kenya top safari reserve and 3 – 4 days gives you the opportunity to visit most of the reserve and spot its elusive residents such as leopards.

If you’re visiting during the Great Migration River Crossing, I’d recommend at least 3 – 7 days to maximise your chances of seeing the river crossing.

It takes around 5-6 hours to drive the 140-170 miles from Nairobi to the Maasai Mara depending on which gate you go to, so remember to factor this into your itinerary time if you’re travelling to the park by road. Flights take around 1.5 hours.

Maasai Mara Safari Areas

The Greater Maasai Mara Ecosystem consists of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, and 14 privately owned conservancies. There are no fences and wildlife can roam freely across the whole ecosystem.

These conservancy areas are owned by the Maasai people who lease certain parcels of land to lodges, which provide the local residents with extra income, generate employment and uplift their communities. 

In return, the Maasai are obliged to remove their cattle from the land, allowing the grasses to regenerate from overgrazing, attracting back the wildlife, which is what keeps the visitors coming. In some areas however, grazing is permitted but on a smaller scale.

By limiting the numbers of lodges, visitors and safari vehicles, these conservancies offer a more private safari experience to their guests. 

Not being bound by the same rules that govern the main reserve, guests in these conservancies have additional safari options such as walking safaris, night game drives and driving off-road.

Visitors staying in these private conservancies are also able to take trips into the reserve (subject to paying the main reserve park fees on top of the fees for the conservancies), while people staying in or outside the reserve may not enter the private conservancies. The exception being the Mara triangle which allows outside visitors subject to paying their park fees.

One of the key benefits for the main Maasai Mara National Reserve and the Mara Triangle which can be visited as part of a safari in the main reserve is the famous Mara River crossing, the pinnacle of the Great Migration.

Below I’ll briefly cover some of the Masai Maras key safari areas and conservancies.

Maasai Mara National Reserve

The Maasai Mara National Reserve is the largest and most popular part of the Maasai Mara Ecosystem.

Stretching from the Siria Escarpment in the west, to the Sekenani Gate to the east and from the Mara River in the south up to 40 kilometres to the north, covering an area of 583 square miles (1,510 square kilometres).

Along with the Mara Triangle, this is a good place to see the Great Wildebeest Migration Mara River crossings.

There are a wide number of lodges and tented camps both inside and on the perimeter of the reserve.

My Personal Experience of Visiting the Maasai Mara National Reserve

I’m not alone when I say the Masai Mara is my favourite safari destination in Kenya, and I’m confident you’ll love it as much as I did!

One of my many memorable sightings here was of a mother cheetah with four adorably fluffy cubs. They must have only been a few months old! You can imagine how charmed I was watching them tussling with one another and jumping on their mother. Speaking of babies, I also saw a baby giraffe following its mother which was so, so cute.

Lion sightings are amazing here too. Watching a pride relaxing after a successful hunt (we could tell it was successful due to the blood on their chests!) was phenomenal, and the best part was seeing a lioness nursing some very young cubs. 

I also had fantastic sightings of hyenas, crocodiles, elephants, hyenas, jackals, and even a rare black rhino accompanied by an ostrich.

Mara Triangle

Situated in the south-western corner of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, this conservancy area stretches between the Mara River in the east to the Oloololo Escarpment in the west. 

It can only be accessed through the Oloololo Main Gate in the west or the newly built Purungat Bridge across the Mara River in the east where you would pay your entry fee. Fees are valid for 12 hours with unlimited exits and entries. 

I’d recommend checking the accessibility of the bridge before going there as it was damaged during the floods of 2024.

Along with the main reserve, this is a good place to see the Great Wildebeest Migration Mara River crossings.

Unlike most other Maasai Mara conservancies you don’t have to stay in the conservancy to visit it.

My Personal Experience of Visiting the Mara Triangle

I visited as part of a safari in the main reserve and I noticed it was quieter than the main reserve. I had a great safari experience and saw a black rhino for the first time in the Maasai Mara.

Mara North Conservancy

Moving to the opposite side in the north-western borders of the park, the Mara North Conservancy is another popular conservancy, covering about 110 square miles (284 square kilometres) of pristine wilderness.

The landscape consists of vast endless plains, supporting a wide range of animals, including large numbers of the Big Five. Additionally, it is a great place to see cheetahs and the endangered black rhinos.

Just 12 lodges offer excellent, mostly luxurious accommodation with plenty of safari options, including horse riding, fly-camping, night drives, walking and hot-air ballooning safaris.  There are just 100 rooms in the entire conservancy.

A downside is that you can’t see the Great Wildebeest Migration Mara River crossing from here.

This area is home to the Karen Blixen Camp, named after the Danish writer from the 1920s, who provided the backdrop to the ‘Out of Africa’ blockbuster movie during the 1980s. It is also the home to Leopard Gorge, made famous by the BBC Big Cat Diaries television series.

My Personal Experience of Visiting the Mara North Conservancy

I have stayed at a luxury tented camp in the Mara North Conservancy and had a great experience. However, it’s worth noting that it’s not cheap with the camps easily costing around $700 – $1,000 per person per night or more.

During my safari I was fortunate enough to see a leopard catching a warthog which was an incredible sight. We also spent a whole day following a cheetah which was a very intimate experience. As with the main reserve I saw a lot of lions.

There were a lower number of cars compared to the main reserve and as it’s a conservancy, you can drive off-road, which is good for photography. The safari vehicles have a fold out flap to allow for low level photography which is not normally allowed in the main reserve.

Mara Naboisho Conservancy

The Naboisho Conservancy is situated adjacent to the south-western borders of the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

This 77 square mile (200 square kilometre) wildlife refuge has one of the densest populations of lions and other cats in the entire Maasai Mara Ecosystem.

Olare Motorogi Conservancy

Situated a few kilometres to the north-west of the main Maasai Mara National Reserve, the Olare Motorogi Conservancy totals 55 square miles (142 square kilometres) and is famed for its numbers of cats including lions, cheetahs, and leopards.

The conservancy hosts five luxury 5 camps, all spread around its perimeters at an average rate of 8 square kilometres per safari vehicle.

Among all the conservancies, Olare has the lowest vehicle density and one of the highest concentrations of big cats.

Ol Kinyei Conservancy

Ol Kinyei Conservancy is situated northeast of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, adjacent to the Mara Naboisho Conservancy. 

It lies on the route of the lesser-known Loita Hills Migration, during which approximately 100,000 to 250,000 wildebeest pass through the conservancy between January and March.  This period coincides with the calving season and related big cat activity.

This is distinct from the larger, more famous Serengeti-Mara migration which has its calving season on the Ndutu plains of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park.

With only 2 small permanent camps and 2 mobile camps operating during peak season, guests are able to enjoy this landscape all to themselves, and may also enter the neighbouring Naboisho Conservancy. 

This area is home to a number of lion prides, cheetahs, leopards, elephants, buffalos, giraffes, zebras and most other animal and bird species found in the Maasai Mara.

Olderkesi Wildlife Conservancy

Tucked next to the south-eastern corner of the Maasai Mara and on the Tanzanian border, this tiny 12 square mile (30 square kilometre) conservancy provides opportunities to view the Big Five, with lower visitor density.

In the dry season, the conservancy features Great Migration river crossings along the Sand River which also stretches into the main Masai Mara national Reserve.

The sand river crossings are much less dramatic than the Mara River crossings in the main reserve as the river is shallower and there are fewer crocodiles in the river.

Lemek Conservancy

Located in the northern region of the Maasai Mara, next to the Mara North Conservancy, Lemek is among the most accessible areas of the park, being a mere 4 hour drive from Nairobi on mostly good tarmac roads.

It’s also one of the few private conservancies that offer budget-friendly accommodation in 2 lodges conveniently built along the banks of the Mara River.

Whilst the Mara river runs along its boundaries, The iconic Mara River crossings of the Great Migration primarily occur further south, notably in the Mara Triangle and central areas of the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

Despite this, the conservancy does offer great wildlife viewing and The Big Five and other iconic species like cheetahs are regularly spotted throughout the year.

This conservancy also has certain dedicated cattle grazing areas for the local Maasai communities.

Ol Choro Oiroua Conservancy

Best Lunch Spots in the Maasai Mara

If you’re in the Maasai Mara and find yourself looking for the best lunch spot, just stop wherever you are and look around you for an acacia tree without any wildlife sitting under it.

Unlike with many other parks and reserves, there are no dedicated lunch spots here so your touch guide will just find a nice-looking acacia tree to park beside and lay down a picnic blanket or set-up a table.

Lunches are usually included in your game drives and safari guides have an unlimited choice of venues to choose from.

Are Maasai Mara Safaris Safe?

Yes, it’s safe to go on safari in the Maasai Mara, and hundreds of tourists have a fantastic trip here every year. But as with anywhere, it’s wise to consider the region’s potential risks.

Wildlife & Natural Disasters

The risk from wildlife when in a safari truck is extremely low. Simply follow the advice of your guide at all times and you’ll be fine!

Guides are not just there to drive you around and point to animals, but are highly experienced in being among the wildlife and know their moods and characters and can read their body language and recognise any early warning signs.

Another point to remember is that most camps in the reserve are not fenced and predators and other animals can enter the lodges or camps especially after dark. The camps have guards who will escort you to and from your room at night. 

In terms of natural disasters, flooding is the main risk. Fortunately, technology can provide us with a few days’ warnings in time to cancel or postpone trips to risky areas. Or even better, play it safe and visit the Maasai Mara during the dry seasons, eliminating the risk of flooding as far as possible.

Is Crime an Issue?

Out in the game parks like the Maasai Mara, you are pretty safe as crime and petty theft is virtually unheard of.

Like almost everywhere in the world, a risk of terrorism is present in Kenya. However, this is always highest in busy cities and national parks haven’t ever been targets. Crowded areas are most at risk so if you wish to eliminate the risk completely, you may wish to stay in a hotel outside of the city hub.

What’s The Safest Way to Travel Kenya?

Safari trucks tend to be very safe as they don’t travel particularly fast and the driver guides normally drive very carefully.

Road accidents can occur in Kenya, often involving the overcrowded small minibuses used by the locals.

Some roads aren’t well maintained, although you should be fine travelling between cities and national parks on the main tourist routes.

If you’re visiting during the wet season, be aware that the sudden downpours can cause dangerous driving conditions and restrict visibility.

However, avoid travelling after dark where possible and take care, especially if you’re self-driving.

Transfers as part of luxury safaris to national parks like Maasai mara are sometimes taken by plane, usually a small light aircraft like a Cessna Caravan. The safety record for these small planes is extremely good.

Most hot air balloon flights run smoothly and safely, but there is always a small element of risk. Usually the risk occurs with hot air balloons when tourists pressure the operator to fly in windy conditions against the guidance of the operator.

Health and Diseases

Food poisoning is something that can affect travellers anywhere in the world so it’s good to be prepared and know what to look out for. Tap water is not safe to drink so bottled and filtered water will be available at your accommodation.

Hygiene standards at most lodges in and around the Masai Mara are high however. Someone in my party has only experienced food poisoning on one occasion which I think was fish at a buffet in a budget lodge. If you have a sensitive stomach, mid-range and luxury camps with good reviews are a safe bet.

It’s always wise to carry immodium, rehydration sachets and a pack of disinfecting wipes wherever you go. Luckily, except in severe cases, food poisoning doesn’t usually require any specific medical treatment, except constant rehydration and avoiding fatty and spicy food for a day or two. 

Regarding diseases, Kenya is a high risk yellow fever country and a vaccination certificate is required when journeying between Kenya and other neighbouring countries. It’s recommended to get the vaccine for your visit to Kenya. It is also a high malaria and tsetse fly risk zone.

Is Maasai Mara a Malaria Area?

Both mosquitoes and tsetse flies are present in the Maasai Mara so precautions should be taken to avoid getting bitten. Mosquito bites may cause malaria while tsetse flies can transmit a parasite which sometimes results in the African Sleeping Sickness. 

You can reduce the risk of bites by wearing long-sleeved tops and trousers while out in the bush, especially at dusk. Light or neutral colours are best. Use insect repellent and always sleep beneath a mosquito net. Before leaving home, speak to your health provider for advice on recommended immunizations and anti-malarial medication.

Can I Wear Shorts in Maasai Mara?

Yes, you certainly can wear shorts in the Maasai Mara!

There are a couple of things to consider however. As there are mosquitos around you’ll want to put insect repellent on any exposed skin and also apply suncream to stop sunburn.

Things to do in Maasai Mara

Is a Maasai Mara Balloon Ride Worth It?

Definitely! A hot air balloon ride over the Maasai Mara must be one of the most glorious and memorable experiences ever. I cannot think of anything more exhilarating than floating gently above the treetops looking down onto herds of wildebeest, zebras, elephants and gazelles, with the sun rising slowly above the golden plains of the Maasai Mara spread out below as far as the eye can see. It’s truly a once in a lifetime experience.

Hot air balloon rides are, however, fairly expensive as you can expect to pay around $600 per person for the experience. They normally start at the break of day, which means that you have to be up long before the sun comes up, depending how far you have to drive to the launch site. Rides usually last for an hour or so and end up wherever the breeze chooses to send you, with a champagne breakfast in the wild to celebrate your experience.

Balloons will only fly in good clear weather, so be wary of pushy passengers urging the pilots to take off in dodgy weather, which may jeopardise everyone on board.

Spending that amount of money, you’d want to have the best experience possible, so it’s best to  do that during the long dry season when the weather is clear and predictable. In the event of a flight being cancelled due to bad weather, such as rain or strong winds, passengers are always refunded.

Can You Go on A Walking Safari in Maasai Mara?

Walking safaris are prohibited in most parks in Kenya, with lodges and camps in the Maasai Mara Reserve only offering short guided nature walks within the immediate vicinity of their properties.

In the conservancies however, things are different. Among the major benefits of staying in the private conservancies, are the extra safari activities they can offer, which are not possible in the rest of the reserve – and a walking safari is one of them. 

Walking safaris also allow you to notice some of the smaller and lesser-known animals you tend to miss on game drives. Your guide will point out animal tracks and smaller creatures normally hidden in the grasses and dense undergrowth.

Walking safaris are carried out under the guidance of experienced armed rangers or Maasai spotters, who are usually armed with a rifle.

Can You Go on Night Game Drives in Maasai Mara?

As with walking safaris, night game drives are not permitted in the main part of the Maasai Mara, and are only allowed in the private conservancies, under a strict set of regulations. 

Night game drives are totally different to the normal day drives, giving you an opportunity to see nocturnal animals and birds that are rarely seen during daytime. Lesser known animals like servals and other small cats, aardvarks, aardwolves, bat-eared foxes, honey badgers and several species of owl are common sightings on night game drives.

Night drives usually begin at around 7 pm or 9 pm and can last for about 2 hours or so.. Guests must be accompanied by experienced driver/guides, and comply with all the local conservancy rules. Vehicles are fitted with powerful lights with red filters which do not spook the wildlife and are safe for their sensitive eyes. No private vehicles are allowed to night drive.

Can I go Horse Riding in the Maasai Mara?

Guided horse riding safaris are only permitted in the private conservancies surrounding the actual Maasai Mara Reserve and not within the national reserve itself.

Despite the constant presence of big predators and other large animals, horse riding safaris are generally considered safe. With horses being fairly big animals, predators do not see them as natural prey and seldom pose a threat to them. Scientists say that the unique scent of horses is off-putting to most predators and they tend to leave them alone.

Photographic Safari in Maasai Mara

Photographic safaris take place in specially modified vehicles with large open windows on all sides as well as the usual pop-up roofs to allow shooting on all sides of the vehicle. 

You will often be accompanied by an expert photographer who will not only offer technical advice but also understands the behaviour of the wildlife and can instruct the driver to approach an animal from the best possible angle.

Unlike the main reserve, the Maasai Mara conservancies often allow for drop sides on the safari trucks which allow for super low level shots.

Being familiar with the landscape, the guides will take you to the best spots where specific animals are likely to be, giving you the best chance of capturing that special shot you have come here for. They can also take you to remote areas less visited by tourists allowing you to get close to a particular animal or bird.

Visit a Maasai Village

Being one of the most iconic and world-famous tribes in the world, no trip to the Maasai Mara could be complete without visiting an authentic Maasai village, many of which lie on the fringes of the main reserve.

Known mainly for their fearless warriors, bright coloured fabrics and their unique jumping dancing style, known as Adumu, there is so much more to the Maasai people than you could imagine.

Some bomas are a bit more commercialised than others so it’s advisable to request that your guide takes you to a more authentic boma.

I’ve been to several bomas at this point and always come out intrigued and amazed by their simplistic way of life they have chosen and the ancient skills they possess and customs they practise to this day. 

A typical Maasai tour itinerary will include a visit to a Maasai settlement, known as a Boma which comprises a cluster of mud huts and where you get to meet the elders who may demonstrate some of their survival skills, giving you a glimpse into their ancient culture and traditions.

The tour will also include a traditional dancing demonstration, in which you may be invited to participate and see if you can jump higher than them, which is not as easy as it sounds.  

You will also have the opportunity to buy some authentic home-made Maasai souvenirs.

Bush Breakfasts, Dinners and Sundowners

If you want to celebrate a special occasion in style, nothing could be more memorable than having a private meal served out in the open bush surrounded only by spectacular scenery and the peacefulness of nature.

Lodges offer specialised breakfasts, lunches, dinners and sundowners in a setting of your choice. Meals range from multi-course fine dining and candle-lit dinners, to open fire barbeque or simple picnic baskets. Or you could end the day out in the bush sitting under an acacia tree drink in hand watching the sun sinking into the hills and valleys of the African savannahs. What better way to end a perfect trip?

How to Book Your Maasai Mara Safari

Without a doubt the most popular and easiest way to go on safari in Maasai Mara is to book your trip with a local tour operator. This is how I booked my Kenya safari and I was extremely happy.

These types of trips are extremely convenient as your tour operator will take care of everything, from booking hotels and permits to giving you up-to-date recommendations on the best places to visit based on recent wildlife sightings.

You can get quotes from the same local tour companies I use to organise my own trips here: Safaris By Ella

Other types of safari are available, including self-drive safaris and fly-in to hotel safaris, where you fly from lodge to lodge and each lodge offers game drives. And of course there are package holidays, where an international travel agent takes care of everything, including international flights.

The option you choose will have a large impact on the price of your safari as well as the experience itself. Below I will provide you with the pros and cons of each option.

Option 1: Self-Drive Safari

For the Masai Mara self-driving is no longer an option.

As of June 2024, self-driving (where you drive yourself) is banned in the Masai Mara in Kenya.

To visit the Masai Mara you would need to use a licensed safari company who will provide a professional driver guide.

I’m not a massive fan of self-driving in Kenya anyway as you miss out on a lot of great wildlife sightings when you don’t have a guide with you.

Option 2: Local Tour Operator

Booking with local safari tour operators is my personal favourite option and suits the vast majority of safari-goers. This approach offers a comprehensive and hassle-free safari experience that takes the stress out of planning.

Option 3: Hotel Safaris

Many hotels and lodges offer their own safari experiences. This is a good choice if you want to be based in the same place for an extended period, or if you only want to fly from lodge to lodge. This option is only viable if you have a large budget. 

Conclusion on Hotel Safaris:

Ultimately, lodge-based safaris are best suited for travellers with generous budgets who prefer a more stationary, luxurious safari experience. And it’s important that you don’t mind sharing game drive vehicles with other guests.

Option 4: International Travel Agents

This is an option if budget isn’t a concern for you and you want your international flights arranged as part of your safari package. However, you will typically pay 30% – 50% more than booking through a local tour operator.

Private vs Group Maasai Mara Safaris

Whether you go on a private safari, either solo or with travelling companions, or opt to share with strangers as part of a larger group will make a big difference to your overall safari experience. Let’s look at some of the pros and cons of each option. 

Private Maasai Mara Safaris

I highly recommend booking a private safari in Maasai Mara if you can. They’re fully customisable, so you’ll have a say in everything from trip destinations and accommodation, to safari timings and how long you remain at each sighting. You can even have an input when it comes to meals during your stay.

The only downside of these tours is the cost. Private safaris are more expensive than group trips, and the cost can be prohibitive, particularly for solo travellers. However, in my experience, having more control over the itinerary means that you’ll get more value out of your trip, and you won’t have to share with strangers.

Group or Shared Safaris

Shared safaris are cheaper than private trips, which makes them a good choice for solo travellers looking for a cost-effective way to explore Maasai Mara. Group tours are also a great way to meet fellow travellers if you want a sociable experience.

The downside of shared trips is that you’ll have very little flexibility when it comes to schedule. Tours run on set dates at fixed times, and you’ll have no say in how long to spend out on game drives, or at different sightings. Another negative when it comes to group tours is that you’ll have to share a safari vehicle and may not always get the best seat on game drives.

I recommend shared safaris as a good option for solo travellers, but if you’re travelling in a pair or group, or want something more exclusive, then I do think private tours are best.

Maasai Mara Safari Costs

You’re probably wondering, how much does a Maasai Mara safari cost?

Well, a private safari in the Maasai Mara for two people typically starts from $350 per person per day, full board, assuming you are visiting in low season and $450 per person per day if visiting in high season.

With park fees coming in at $100 + 18% tax per person in low season and $200 + 18% tax per person in high season, this is by far the most expensive part of your safari.

There’s a huge range of accommodation options available with prices typically starting from $100 per person per night. They are typically full board however so this includes all your meals.

Why is Maasai Mara So Expensive?

The Maasai Mara is expensive in part because African safaris are inherently expensive, requiring specialised vehicles and guides and in part because Kenya doubled the park fees in late 2023.

A key reason for the recent price increases was to attempt to reduce the number of visitors to the park. 

Following the example of Botswana, which has a highly successful low impact, high value tourism model, the Maasai Mara is now attempting to have fewer visitors (and thus less wear and tear on the park) but still have the high costs of running the park covered.

The Maasai Mara has suffered over the years through over-tourism and so I’m in favour of the park fee changes in order to save the ecosystem. 

There are many other parks in Kenya that are just as good, with so much wildlife and which don’t have the high price tag. If visitors were spread out more evenly between these parks, it would significantly reduce the strain on the Maasai Mara and allow the wildlife to thrive.

Running a reserve like the Maasai Mara is expensive. With poaching—particularly of rhinos and elephants—at crisis levels across Africa, significant resources are needed for conservation, contributing heavily to the high park fees, which are expected to keep rising.

Additional costs such as infrastructure, ranger salaries, and support for surrounding communities also add to the overall expense of maintaining the park.

How Much Does it Cost to Enter Maasai Mara?

Recent park fee increases in 2024 now put the park fees at $100 + 18% tax per person per 12 hour period in low season, between January and June, and $200 + 18% tax per person per 12 hour period in high season, between July and December.

Note that the permit you’re obtaining is single-entry and so you can’t leave the reserve and re-enter later that same day without paying for another permit. For this reason it’s best to stay in the reserve as long as possible and enjoy a picnic lunch within the reserve.

What is the 12 Hour Rule for Maasai Mara?

Visitors staying outside the reserve pay a daily entry fee, which is valid for a 12 hour period from 6 am to 6 pm.

Departing guests staying inside the park, must exit before 10 am otherwise they’ll be required to pay an additional day’s fee.

Is a Maasai Mara Safari Worth It?

Yes – a Maasai Mara safari is certainly worth it! Having one of the highest concentrations of lions in Africa and all of the Big Five, you won’t be disappointed.

I’ve had some of my best wildlife sightings in the Maasai Mara, including four adorable cheetah cubs playing with their mother and a leopard feeding on a gazelle just a few metres from our vehicle.

And then we have the Great Migration, which can only be viewed here and in the Serengeti across the river in Tanzania. 

Witnessing the fields filling up with wildlife as the wildebeest and zebras come pouring into the Maasai after braving the swift currents and crocodile-infested waters of the Mara River, can leave a permanent impression on your mind.

One of the unique features of the Maasai Mara is the easy access to the Mara River, where the dramatic river crossings take place each year during the Great Migration.

Despite being much smaller than other famous parks, you can drive for days on end and still see only a fraction of the park. The Maasai Mara is more than just a dream safari destination, it captures your heart and soul and the beauty, the spirit of the wild and the very essence of Africa. 

Where to Stay in the Maasai Mara

There are 4 different types of lodging available in the Maasai Mara – permanent lodges, tented camps, mobile camps and campsites.

There are also numerous mobile camps that pop up during certain times of the year in various spots along the migration route. The sites and dates vary each year depending on the arrival and the paths of the migratory herds.

Safari Lodges

The first option is staying in a permanent structure with solid walls. These are often referred to as lodges or hotels. There are a couple of lodge options in and around the Maasai Mara.

Tented Safari Camps

Tented camps are the most popular accommodation option in the Maasai Mara and my personal favourite way to spend my time here. The canvas walls allow you to feel like you’re a part of nature and I never get tired of listening to the sounds of the wild.

Tented camps seem to be improving every year and now many of them have replaced bucket showers with traditional showers with hot and cold water.

Tents typically have on-suite western-style flushing toilets and a sink with hot and cold water.

As you’d expect, tents also have lights and power sockets for charging your devices.

Wifi can be a bit hit and miss in my experience, it usually works some of the time and is good enough for emails and reading the news. It’s worth getting an e-sim on your phone as a backup.

The beds are usually very comfortable and I’ve had some of my best nights sleep in tented camps as the sound of nature is very relaxing.

One of my personal favourite camps is Little Zebra River Camp, perched on the banks of the Talek River. Whilst it’s technically located outside of the reserve, it sits just on the border and so all your views are of the rolling Maasai Mara. I spotted zebras, baboons and banded mongooses from my room.

There are of course dozens of other safari camps scattered across most sectors of the Maasai Mara.

Mobile Tented Camps

A third option is known as mobile camping. This is very similar to staying in tented camps except that these camps only appear at certain times of year and as they’re mobile, they have soft floors.

Mobile tented camps typically follow the wildebeest migration routes and have normal beds and ensuite bathrooms with bucket showers.

Basic Camping

The Maasai Mara has a number of public and private campsites.

Amenities in the camps usually consist of a series of ground tents, with a communal bathroom, food preparation area for self-caterers and perhaps a small outdoor deck, usually raised from the ground with a deckchair or two. 

Some extras may include a canvas structure serving as a restaurant and bar, a fire place to barbeque or keep warm and perhaps some laundry services. 

Some campsites are fenced while others are not, making wandering around after dark a little risky, as animals often enter the premises too. 

Some unfenced campsites with absolutely no amenities require the guests to hire 2 askaris (guards) to guard the camp at night.

Should I Stay Inside The Park?

Given the relatively small size of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, it’s not strictly necessary to stay inside the park as you can reach key game-viewing areas from the gates in a short space of time.

Staying inside the reserve is usually more expensive but does offer some benefits. These include being able to go back to your lodge for a hot lunch whereas if you have to leave the reserve for lunch you’d have to pay to re-enter the park which is not-cost effective.

The other key benefit is it does save you a bit of driving time which gives you maximum time first thing in the morning which is often the prime viewing time for big cats hunting.

For most of the Maasai Mara conservancies on the other hand, you have to stay inside them in order to go on game drives with a few exceptions such as the Mara Triangle.

Getting to the Maasai Mara

The Maasai Mara National Reserve can be accessed by road and by air through several main gates leading to the various sectors of the park.

Depending on the sector of the park you’ll be visiting, a road trip from Nairobi could take around 5-6 hours or more.

Alternatively, if you have the budget (about $250-$450 per person each way) you can fly on a small scheduled safari propeller plane which takes around 1.5 hours. This is a particular good option for more remote lodges. Private chartered flights are also an option but cost more.

The Maasai Mara is dotted with numerous airstrips across all sections, which are served regularly from various other airstrips in Kenya and Tanzania and including Nairobi International Airport.

Gates into the Maasai Mara National Reserve

Below are the 6 main gates to the Maasai Mara and are open from 6 am to 6 pm.

Sekenani Gate: Located on the eastern sector of the park, this is the most preferred gate as it lies on the main road from Narok Town and is the shortest route from Nairobi.

Oloolaimutia Gate: This gate is located on the south-eastern side of the park next to the Oloolamitia Village and will be your entrance gate if you’re staying in one of the many lodges or camps in this area.  

Talek Gate: Situated on the north central sector of the park, this is also one of the most used gates serving a large number of lodges.

Oloololo Gate: This gate is located on the north-western side of the park, serving the Oloololo district lodges and the Mara Triangle.

Sand River Gate: This gate is on the south-eastern sector of the park a kilometre or so from the Tanzanian border but is seldom used and may be closed seasonally.

What City is Closest to the Maasai Mara?

Nairobi is the largest city near Maasai Mara and houses the main Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.

Narok Town is a smaller town which lies about halfway between Maasai Mara and Nairobi.

Where Do You Fly to Get to Maasai Mara?

Most international visitors to Kenya arrive at the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi. 

To fly to the Maasai Mara, you would need to get to the Wilson Airport which handles most of the domestic flights in Kenya, and is only a few kilometres to the west of the international airport.

We’ll talk about the different airstrips in the Maasai Mara in more detail below.

Is Nairobi Close to Maasai Mara?

Yes – depending on the location of your lodge and airstrip, the distance is around 200 kms which takes around 6 hours by road or 1.5 hours by air.

Of the two international airports in Kenya, the Jomo Kenyatta Airport in Nairobi is the closest to the Maasai Mara.

Shuttle flights to Maasai Mara National Reserve Airstrips

Air Kenya, Safarilink and Governor’s Aviation are the 3 main airlines operating from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to the Maasai Mara.

They all have several daily return flights in the mornings and in the afternoons, landing and dropping off or collecting passengers from the 8 major Maasai airstrips along the way. 

Mombasa Air Safari also flies daily from Mombasa to the Maasai Mara at 07.30 with flights lasting approximately 3 hours. 

All airlines use mainly propeller planes with seat capacity ranging from 13 to 40 passengers. Luggage capacity is restricted to a maximum of 15 kgs including hand luggage and it’s best to check with them on other baggage regulations that they may have. Most will only accept soft bags. Passengers must be at the airport one hour prior to the flights.

Maasai Mara Airstrips

The 7 major airstrips in the Maasai Mara served by these airlines are as follows. 

Musiara Airstrip: Located in the north-western section of the Maasai Mara.

Ol Kiombo Airstrip: This airstrip is also located in the northern section of the park near the Talek River.

Kichwa Tembo Airstrip: Also located in the northern territories.

Ngerende Airstrip: Situated in the north-eastern region of the park. It’s often used by flights serving lodges in the Mara North Conservancy, not within the main reserve itself.

Serena AIrstrip: Located in the southwestern part of the Mara Triangle.

Keekorok Airstrip: This airstrip is situated in the south-eastern corner of the park. This airstrip is vital to the area as the Sand River access gate is seasonally closed to vehicles, making the area inaccessible by road.

Maasai Mara & Diani Beach or Mombasa for Safari and Beach

Safari and beach holidays are a popular choice as you get to combine the adventure of safari with the relaxation of a beach holiday.

Both Kenya and Tanzania provide safari and beach holidays without having to leave the country.

The most popular beach destinations in Kenya are Diani Beach and Mombasa.

Diani Beach

You can fly directly from airstrips in the Maasai Mara to Dianni Beach.

Direct or one-stop flights from the Maasai Mara to Diani (Ukunda) are available from Safarilink, AirKenya, and Mombasa Air Safari.

Flights take 2 – 2.5 hours. From Ukunda Airstrip it’s usually a short 15 minute drive to your accommodation.

Flights can be arranged at preferential prices by your safari tour operator.

Situated a around 1.5 – 2 hours drive (including a ferry trip) south of Mombasa, Diani is a long 10 kilometres or so stretch of snow-white, soft sandy beach, flanked by tall swaying palm trees and wall-to-wall with trendy hotels, resorts, bars and restaurants on one side, and the warm and blue Indian Ocean on the other. 

Popular activities include swimming, snorkelling, windsurfing, kayaking or just soaking in the sun!

Mombasa

To reach Mombasa, you would fly from Maasai Mara to Moi International Airport (MBA) with Safarilink or AirKenya However, flights are usually via Nairobi (Wilson Airport) there are less flights compared to Ukunda airstrip.

Flights take 3 to 4 hours including the connection at Wilson Airport in Nairobi.

If you want  to include some time for culture, history and shopping in your beach getaway, spend a few days in the historic town of Mombasa.

Mombasa itself is a fascinating city, with a rich blend of African, Asian, Portuguese and English influences, all evident in its architecture as you walk through the narrow side streets of the historic Old Town. Aside from the many forts, museums, shops, restaurants and other fascinating places to visit in Mombasa, its beaches remain its best tourist attractions.

Long white sandy beaches fringed with tall palm trees and a crystal blue ocean is what you’d expect to find on both sides of the city.

Tanzania also offers excellent safari and beach itineraries to the Serengeti and Zanzibar.

How Many Days Do You Need in Maasai Mara and Diani Beach?

The bare minimum amount of time for a combined bush and beach holiday, would be 5 nights, 6 days. However, I’d strongly recommend 7 nights, 8 days instead. That would give you 4 nights on safari and 3 nights in Mombasa or Diani.

How Does Maasai Mara Compare with Other Safari Parks?

The Maasai Mara is arguably the best reserve in Kenya and it can hold its own against the other top safari reserves in Africa.

However, different parks have various pros and cons so let’s dig into how the Maasai Mara compares with its top competitors to help you decide which reserves to include in your safari itinerary.

Serengeti National Park vs Maasai Mara National Reserve

The Serengeti National Park is Tanzania’s flagship park and both the Serengeti and Kenya are part of the Serengeti Ecosystem.

The Serengeti is nearly 10 times bigger than the Maasai Mara. This makes it a longer journey to reach viewing spots in the Serengeti and means you pretty much have to stay inside the park (which can be more expensive vs outside accommodation). 

However, the larger size provides more variety of landscapes, visibility of the Great Migration for most of the year and less other cars at sightings.

Serengeti vs Maasai Mara for Wildlife Viewing

The Big Five are all present in both parks, but you stand a slightly better chance of seeing a rare black rhino in the Maasai Mara than you would in the Serengeti.

Whilst the larger Serengeti has more wildlife in total the Maasai Mara has a denser concentration of lions

The Masai Mara has around 5 lions per 100 km² and as many as 25-30 per 100 km² in prime lion viewing areas. By contrast The Serengeti has around 3.5 lions per 100 km² and as many as 20 per 100 km² in prime lion viewing areas.

The Maasai Mara has more direct tracks through the park which helps with game viewing but is slightly less aesthetically appealing than the Serengeti’s choice of fewer tracks.

Both parks prohibit off road driving, night game drives and walking safaris in the main national reserves but allow this in the private conservancies and parks.

Best Wildlife Viewing Winner: Draw

Serengeti vs Maasai Mara for The Wildebeest Migration

The Great Migration takes place in both parks but not equally. The migratory herds can be viewed over a larger area and for a longer period in the Serengeti than in the Maasai Mara.

The Great Migration Mara River crossing can be viewed equally well from the Serengeti or Maasai Mara side.

The Great Migration spends 9 months of the year in the Serengeti, so if you want to see the Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara you would need to visit between mid-July and mid-October.

The Wildebeests usually start arriving in the Maasai Mara around mid-July and after fattening up on the luscious green grasslands and mating, they head south leaving the Maasai around October. Late studies suggest they are spending less time in the Maasai than in past years. 

They stay in Serengeti for the remainder of the year where they give birth.

Whilst the Maasai Mara does have its own mini calving season distinct from the Great Migration, it does not compare with that of the main claving season in the Serengeti, where an estimated 8,000 baby wildebeest and zebras are born each day on the southern Nudutu plains of the Serengeti.

Great Migration Winner: Serengeti National Park

Serengeti vs Maasai Mara Costs

Historically the Maasai Mara has been regarded as being the cheaper destination, but with the latest park fee increases in the Mara in late 2023, the Maasai Mara is now more expensive in terms of park fees.

This is slightly offset by more budget-friendly lodges in the Maasai than the Serengeti. With the Maasai Mara being smaller you also have the cheaper option of staying outside the park.

It’s also around 50% quicker and thus cheaper to reach the Mara River for the epic wildebeest crossing in the Maasai Mara from Nairobi than it is to reach it from Arusha in Tanzania.

For a more detailed costs analysis for both parks you could always check out my Tanzania Costs and Kenya Costs guides.

Costs Winner: Serengeti especially for multi-day trips where park fees make up a higher percentage of costs.

Kruger National Park vs Maasai Mara National Reserve

The Kruger is nearly 50% bigger than the Serengeti, which is already 10 times bigger than the Maasai Mara. Being that much larger, the Kruger also has a much varied landscape

Kruger vs Maasai Mara for Wildlife Viewing

You can see all of the Big Five in both reserves.

Both reserves have a similar overall density of lions but the Maasai Mara has a much higher density in prime viewing areas

The Masai Mara has around 5 lions per 100 km² and as many as 25-30 per 100 km² in prime lion viewing areas. By contrast The Kruger also has around 5 lions per 100 km² and as many as 9 per 100 km² in prime lion viewing areas.

In certain areas of the Kruger, leopards have become accustomed to vehicles and people gawking at them, and are often seen brazenly walking along the roads next to vehicles. 

Kurger has both black and white rhinos whereas the Maasai Mara only has the rarer endangered black rhinos. You are more likely to see rhinos in the Kruger but if it’s the rare black rhinos then your chances are higher in the Maasai Mara.

The Kruger only has 1.3 black rhinos per 100 km² compared to 3 rhinos per 100 km² in the Maasai Mara. However, when  you include white rhinos the Kruger has 1.5 rhinos per 100 km² overall.

The Great Migration and its  infamous river crossings are a major attraction for the Maasai Mara, with no park, other than the Serengeti hosting this great natural wonder. 

Best Wildlife Viewing Winner: Draw

Kruger vs Maasai Mara Costs

Accommodation costs are pretty similar between the two parks, with many high-end and budget-friendly lodges available.

Park fees are a lot less in Kruger and with the low exchange rate of the South African currency, it makes Kruger a more affordable destination, especially for British, European and American visitors.

Costs Winner: Kruger has much lower park fees

Amboseli National Park vs Maasai Mara National Reserve

As far as size goes, the Maasai Mara is gigantic when compared to the minuscule 151 square miles (392 square km) of Amboseli. This has a huge bearing on the numbers and variety of animals you can hope to see, with the Maasai Mara winning this particular contest.

Amboseli vs Maasai Mara for Wildlife Viewing

If you have a thing for elephants then Amboseli National Park is the park for you. This place is not known as ‘the home of the elephant’ for nothing. Amboseli is famed not only for its large numbers of elephants but some of these giants referred to as the ‘Big Tuskers’ have enormous tusks almost touching the ground. A stunning sight to witness.

Whilst the Maasai Mara also has elephants they don’t have the same huge tasks as Amboseli’s herds.

Amboseli is one of the most photogenic safari parks in Africa, despite having a much drier climate. With Africa’s tallest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro, always looming in the distance, there’s nowhere better to capture a herd of elephants ambling through a savannah with the snow-capped icon as a background, than the Amboseli. The essence of Africa in a single picture.

Despite the drier climate and semi-arid landscape, Amboseli also has a vast wetlands system, which is a magnet for the wildlife and is home to a large number of birds, including huge colonies of flamingos, a sight not often seen in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. 

There are no wildebeest migration patterns in the Amboseli to compare with the Maasai Mara, but early mornings are guaranteed to see herds of elephants arriving near the main entrance from the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro heading to the marshlands and watering holes of the Amboseli and then heading back in the afternoons.

Amboseli Park fees are $100 which are half of that of the Maasai Mara, but quite understandably so, being a mere fraction in size. Accommodation is also a little cheaper in the Amboseli, with many lodges for all budgets being readily available on the outside of the park but situated almost at the main gate.  

Best Wildlife Viewing Winner: Maasai Mara as it has has leopards, rhinos and the Great Migration which you can’t see in Amboseli. However, Amboseli comes a close second with its Big tusker elephant herds.

Amboseli vs Maasai Mara Costs

In the second half of the year the Maasai mara park fees of $200 per person per day are double that of Amboseli which are $100.

Accommodation costs are similar for both parks and you have the option to stay outside of the parks to reduce costs.

Costs Winner: Amboseli

Tsavo East and West vs Maasai Mara National Reserve

At around 8,494 square miles (22,000 square km) in size and Tsavo being the largest national park in Kenya, the Maasai Mara is but a small postage stamp in size. Tsavo has been split into two distinctly different regions – East and West, both spectacular in their own right.

Tsavo vs Maasai Mara for Wildlife Viewing

Both parks hold their own very nicely with a similar range of animals including all of the Big Five. Rhino sightings are much more common in Tsavo where a healthy number can be seen at the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary situated almost next to the main highway that separates the two sections. 

Leopards can be found in both parks, although their secretive nature can make them a little harder to track than other animals.

Since the killings of many rail workers by two lions in the late 1800s, Tsavo has gained the reputation of being the ‘land of man eaters’, with many of their descendants still roaming the park.

The Maasai Mara however, beats Tsavo when it comes to density lions and other big cats.

Tsavo’s has scenic landscapes. with mountains with dramatic volcanic formations, crystal clear fresh water springs bursting with wildlife, like hippos, crocs and fish, waterfalls, rivers, lava flows and wetlands add to the vast grassy savannahs and rolling plains of this massive park.

Another feather in Tsavo’s cap is that night game drives are permitted, where they’re only allowed in some of the surrounding conservancies of the Maasai Mara.

Best Wildlife Viewing Winner: Maasai Mara

Tsavo vs Maasai Mara Costs

Tsavo Park daily entry fees are only $52 compared to the far higher $200 charged at the Maasai Mara for the second half of the year. Accommodation costs are very similar between the two parks. 

Costs Winner: Tsavo East and West

Samburu National Park vs Maasai Mara National Reserve

Samburu National Park is a small 64 square miles (165 square km) in size. Despite its small size Samburu packs a big punch worthy of being compared to the Maasai Mara.

Samburu vs Maasai Mara for Wildlife Viewing

With the exception of rhinos, Samburu has an abundance of all the other members of the Big Five.

Due to its small size there is a impressive density of game, and also provide excellent chances of spotting leopards.

Once again, the Great Migration in the Maasai Mara has no equal as a unique spectacle, but what samburu does have is the “Samburu Special Five: which refers to five unique and rare species: the Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx, Somali ostrich, and the gerenuk, known for its elongated neck and ability to stand on two legs to browse.

Best Wildlife Viewing Winner: Draw – Mara has more volume, but Samburu features rare “Samburu Special Five”.

Samburu vs Maasai Mara Costs

Entry fee to Samburu is $70, which may seem high for such a small park, but is still much lower than the $200 charged at the Maasai Mara in the second half of the year.

When it comes to accommodation options at the two parks cost are similar.

Costs Winner: Samburu has lower park fees

Best Maasai Mara Safari Itineraries

Below are two of my recommended itineraries for visiting the Maasai Mara. 

These can be done either on their own or incorporated into longer Kenya itineraries, including visiting other parks such as Amboseli National Park, Samburu and Tsavo East and West.

You can also extend them to include trips into neighbouring Tanzania which works well as the Serengeti is right next to the Maasai Mara. 

Alternatively you can take a break from the bush and spend some time relaxing along the stunning coastline of East Africa, in places such as Mombasa, Diani Beach or even Tanzania’s Zanzibar Island.

3-Day Maasai Mara Safari from Nairobi Itinerary

This 3-day Maasai Mara safari from Nairobi offers thrilling game drives with chances to spot the Big Five, and can be combined with my longer Kenya itineraries such as my 7-10-Day Kenya Safari Itinerary and my 2-Week Kenya Itinerary.

Day By Day Breakdown of 3-Day Maasai Mara Safari from Nairobi Itinerary

The trip starts with your arrival to Arusha, the closest big city with an international airport to the Serengeti.

Jump back to the list of itineraries to select another Serengeti itinerary to view or keep scrolling to read the next itinerary.

4-Day Maasai Mara Great Wildebeest Migration River Crossing Itinerary

This itinerary is specifically designed to see the Great Wildebeest Migration and is a little longer to provide you with the opportunity of witnessing the dramatic river crossings on the Mara River. 

This tour should be planned to take place around August and September, when the migratory herds are normally expected to start arriving. There is also a smaller window when they cross back between mid-October and mid-November.

Exact timings vary according to the variable timings of the rains.

This Itinerary can be combined with my longer Kenya itineraries such as my 7-10-Day Kenya Safari Itinerary and my 2-Week Kenya Itinerary.

Day By Day Breakdown of 4-Day Maasai Mara Great Wildebeest Migration River Crossing Itinerary

Jump back to the list of itineraries to select another Serengeti itinerary to view or keep scrolling to read the next itinerary.

Maasai Mara Safari Videos

If you’d like to see exactly what a Maasai Mara safari experience is like, I have a number of videos showcasing my experiences below: