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Ultimate 3-Week Botswana Safari Itinerary & Costs

Having traveled to the furthest reaches of Africa’s wildlife havens, from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara, I thought I had seen all the best safari destinations that Africa has to offer – until I came to Botswana!

This landlocked country is home to the lush Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park but also the arid Central Kalahari Game Reserve right in the centre of the country.

Male lion in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Male lion in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

On one magnificent three-week safari, I witnessed young wild dog pups frolicking outside their den, had a nerve-wracking up-close encounter with a massive crocodile, and saw a baby hippo for the first time. And that’s just a glimpse of what Botswana has to offer.

If you’re short on time or have a limited budget, it’s well worth embarking on a 10-day or even a 7-day Botswana itinerary. But the ultimate way to experience the African bush is to settle into its own slow rhythms and take your time.

For me this meant diving into a full three-week itinerary that traversed the country, taking in all this majestical part of the world has to offer.

In this guide, I’m going to dive into the ultimate 3-week Botswana safari itinerary. My goal is to provide you with everything you need to know, including costs, how to find the perfect tour operator and more, so that you can plan the safari of a lifetime!

Botswana Safari Itinerary Map

3-week botswana itinerary map
3-week botswana itinerary map
Leopard eating a warthog in a tree spotted during a night game drive in Botswana
Leopard eating a warthog in a tree spotted during a night game drive in Botswana
Ella McKendrick on safari with an Elephant in the background in Serengeti, Tanzania

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Wild dog in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Wild dog in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Why Go on Safari in Botswana?

In my opinion, there are a few compelling reasons to plan a safari adventure in Botswana. I’ll cover each reason each briefly below.

Below is a map of Kenya showing the safari highlights.

Botswana Safari Map
Botswana Safari Map

1. Low Levels of Tourism Provide an Exclusive Experience

The government of Botswana has a low-impact, high-value tourism policy, limiting the numbers of visitors and vehicles in its reserves.  This makes for a more intimate, private and authentic African safari experience. For instance, you can drive for the whole day in the wetlands of the Okavango, and scarcely see another soul. It’s just you, the animals and nature in its rawest form. It just cannot get any better than this!

However, fewer visitors, coupled with the extreme remoteness of Botswana’s game reserves, makes Botswana one of the most expensive safari destinations in the world. And just as you might expect, the lodges in Botswana tend to be more upmarket. Their luxurious accommodation and unrivalled amenities come at a steep price. But the pros far outweigh the cons.

Ella McKendrick on safari in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Me on safari in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

Eco-conscious lodges and low tourism traffic means that the fragile ecosystem remains relatively undisturbed. The fauna and flora thrive naturally, as they have done for thousands of years, giving nature lovers a genuine feel of the wild.

Botswana is a vast country. There are few roads and the tiny population lives mostly in the capital, Gabarone, and in a handful of smaller towns. This means that there are seemingly endless open spaces of true wilderness just waiting to be explored.

Safari vehicle driving through Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
In Botswana it’s just you and nature with few other vehicles compared t other safari destinations

2. Dense Wildlife Including The Big Five

With its diverse landscapes of open grasslands, dense forests, dry arid plains, rivers, lagoons and lush wetlands, there is a vast array of wildlife, including all of Africa’s cats and the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino).

You can also expect to see cheetah, brown and spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and gemsbok, plus a variety of antelope species.

Botswana has the world’s largest populations of elephants and, my personal favourite, wild dogs! There are also many other rare and endangered creatures, some of which are not seen in other safari destinations. These include roan, tsessebe and red lechwe antelopes. The rivers, lagoons and waterways are teeming with hippos, crocodiles and fish species including the prized and ferocious tiger fish.

Lions by a kill in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Lions by a kill in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

3. Great Birding

Botswana is also a birder’s paradise!  Its diverse landscapes are home to over 600 species of birds, including giant ostriches, eagles, vultures, herons, kingfishers, hamerkops, hornbills, skimmers and saddle-billed storks, to name a few. 

Southern ground hornbill in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Southern ground hornbill in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

4. Zebra Migration

While everyone knows about the Great Wildebeest Migration that takes place in the Serengeti and Maasai Mara National Reserve, few are aware of Botswana’s own zebra migration. Although smaller than its east African counterparts, the zebra migration is nevertheless a marvel to witness.

Zebras in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Zebras in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana

5. Okavango Delta and Chobe River

Another huge advantage of Botswana safaris is water-related activities. Over and above the normal game drives and walking safaris, the vast wetlands, rivers, lagoons and waterways of the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park offer endless opportunities to approach and view the wildlife close up from a boat, a dugout canoe (mokoro) or even from luxurious houseboats (basically floating hotels!).

Navigating silently through the flooded, crystal blue waterways of the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park, is one of the most thrilling wildlife experiences I’ve ever had.

Ella McKendrick on Mokoro (traditional canoe) Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Me on safari in a Mokoro (traditional canoe) with elephants in the background. Khwai Community Area, Botswana.

6. Experienced Guides

I found the guides, trackers and mokoro polers of Botswana to be the best in the business. They’re always willing to share their extremely deep knowledge of their environment and the habits and behaviours of the wildlife.

Ella McKendrick with guide in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana
The guides in Botswana are some of the best in the world

I could go on about Botswana forever, but I think you’ve got my drift by now. Yes, a bit expensive, but the experience is purely sublime!

Let’s move on to the nitty-gritty and look at how you can book your Botswana safari.

How to Book Your 3-Week Botswana Safari

Without a doubt the most popular and easiest way to go on safari in Botswana is to book your trip with a local tour operator. This is how I booked my Botswana safari and I was extremely happy.

These types of trips are extremely convenient as your tour operator will take care of everything, from booking hotels and permits to giving you up-to-date recommendations on the best places to visit based on recent wildlife sightings.

You can get quotes from the same local tour companies I use to organise my own trips here: Safaris By Ella

Other types of safari are available, including self-drive safaris and fly-in to hotel-provided safaris, where you fly from lodge to lodge and each lodge offers game drives. And of course there are package holidays, where an international travel agent takes care of everything, including international flights.

The option you choose will have a large impact on the price of your safari as well as the experience itself. Below I will provide you with the pros and cons of each option.

Female lion in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Female lion in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
On Safari with a local tour operator in Botswana
On Safari with a local tour operator in Botswana

Option 1: Self-Drive Safari

Self-drive safaris are a good option for the most adventurous of travelers who are on a tight budget.

To succeed at a self-drive safari, you need significant off-road driving experience, as Botswana’s terrain can be more challenging than that of other African destinations. Areas like Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe are especially demanding, particularly during rainy seasons.

Pros of Self-Drive Safaris:

  • You’ll have complete freedom in your schedule. You can come and go as you please, and make spontaneous stops for lucky sightings.
  • This is a good choice for those who are really after an independent wilderness adventure
  • If you plan well, you can potentially reduce some costs, such as vehicle hire and guide fees.
Toyota Hilux 4x4 self-drive with rooftop tent in Namib-Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park, Namibia, Africa
I enjoyed self-driving in Namibia where safari was only a small part of the trip but I prefer to use a local safari company with a guide where safari is the focus of the trip

Cons of Self-Drive Safaris:

  • You’re likely to have limited wildlife sightings since you won’t have the help of professional guides and local expertise. 
  • The only accommodation option available to self-drivers in Botswana is basic camping. It can be quite tiring to set up and take down your entire camp between long drives in difficult conditions. 
  • This option requires extensive planning and good off-road driving skills.
  • The actual cost savings often prove minimal once all your expenses are considered.

My Verdict on Self-Drive Safaris:

I advise against self-driving for most visitors. While it’s a viable option in places like South Africa or Namibia, where driving conditions are easier, the challenges associated with self-driving often outweigh the modest savings.

I’ve found that local operators provide the most rewarding safari experiences. They handle logistics and provide expert guides whose expertise are invaluable when you’re on the move in the bush. If your budget allows, a professionally guided safari offers the best blend of comfort, safety, and wildlife viewing opportunities.

How to Book a DIY Self-Drive Tanzania Safari

  • Option 1: Comparison sites which provide multiple quotes from verified suppliers such as Safaris By Ella. Make sure to write you want to self drive in the notes when requesting a quote. (This is a hybrid approach where you’ll drive yourself but they will arrange everything)
  • Option 2: Research and book all elements of the trip yourself using Google and online travel agents.

Join the rapidly growing tribe of over 1,000 travellers who’ve booked their dream safari using my insider tips and recommendations. Get your free quotes and my top tips and recommendations now.

Africa's largest owl, the verreaux's eagle-owl in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Africa’s largest owl, the verreaux’s eagle-owl in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Option 2: Local Tour Operator

In my opinion, booking your safari through a local tour operator is the ideal way to explore Botswana. 

Local tour operators take care of everything except international flights, creating a seamless journey from the moment you arrive in your destination country to the moment you depart. For most travellers, this provides the most comprehensive and relaxing safari experience.

Pros of Local Tour Operators:

  • Quality local tour operators deliver a complete service, managing everything from park permits to comfortable accommodation to meals and drinks. They are able to secure the best and most experienced guides and top quality vehicles throughout your safari.
  • Having experienced both self-planned and professionally managed safaris, I can assure you that drawing on the expertise of local professionals makes for a truly relaxing adventure.
  • Booking with local operators often matches the cost of self-organizing your trip, and sometimes it can even save you money. Through their established relationships with camps and lodges, they are often able to secure preferential rates for accommodation, and sometimes even accommodations that appear to be sold out online. You get all this value while saving countless hours of planning.
  • The real value of booking this way is that you can draw extensively on local expertise. Your guide’s deep knowledge of the area and tracking skills are invaluable.
  • Guides also have access to a professional radio network, significantly improving your chances of wildlife sightings.

Ella McKendrick Having the safari of my life with a local Botswana safari company
Having the safari of my life with a local Botswana safari company

Cons of Local Tour Operators:

  • You’ll need to book your international flights separately.
    Quality varies between certain local operators, and cheaper isn’t always better.
  • Extremely low prices should be a red flag. Operators who dramatically undercut prices often compromise on quality and may add hidden costs later.

My Verdict on Local Tour Operators:

While a reputable local operator might cost slightly more upfront than self-driving, the enhanced experience more than justifies the investment. Do your research thoroughly when vetting your tour operators – look for consistent positive reviews online, especially regarding guide expertise and vehicle quality.

I’d love to help you choose the perfect local tour operator. You can receive safari quotations from my favourite local tour operators who I have personally been on safari with and had an excellent experience with here on Safaris By Ella.

Recommended Booking Options For Your Itinerary

Safari with local tour operator

Most popular & best experience – typical prices for this itinerary start from $ per person per day.

Visit safarisbyella.com for free quotes from trustworthy local tour companies I use to book my own trips.

Ella Mckendrick on safari with lions

How to Book with the Best Local Safari Companies

  • Comparison sites which provide multiple quotes from verified suppliers such as Safaris By Ella

Join the rapidly growing tribe of over 1,000 travellers who’ve booked their dream safari using my insider tips and recommendations.

Ella McKendrick Having a morning break for tea whilst on safari with a local Botswana safari company
Having a morning break for tea whilst on safari with a local Botswana safari company

Option 3: Hotel-Provided Safaris

Hotel-provided safaris work well if you’re after a luxurious experience and  prefer staying in one location or traveling between lodges by air. While not the most cost-effective option, it suits travelers with larger budgets who prioritise high levels of comfort.

Pros of Hotel-Provided Safaris:

  • Hotel-provided safaris offers a relaxing experience from a fixed, luxurious base.
  • When flying between lodges, generally your transfers will be smooth and efficient, and you will avoid long road journeys.

Saddle-billed stalk in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Saddle-billed stalk in Khwai Community Area, Botswana

Cons of Hotel-Provided Safaris:

  • This option is significantly more expensive than booking through local tour operators.
  • Your flight options include scheduled services (to popular airstrips) or chartered flights. Chartered flights offer direct access but at a much higher cost.
  • Bear in mind that you are likely to have to sharing safari vehicles with other hotel guests, limiting your flexibility in game drive timing and duration at wildlife sightings.

Top Tip:
Consider combining lodge stays with a private local safari company for game drives. This mixed approach offers both luxury accommodation and personalised wildlife viewing.

My Verdict on Hotel-Provided Safaris:

Hotel-provided safaris suit those with generous budgets who prefer a stationary, luxurious experience. Remember that you’ll likely share game drives with other guests.

How to Book a Hotel-Provided Safari

  • Option 1: My recommended tour operators on Safaris By Ella can arrange hotels and air or road transport to and from the hotels. If you opt for the more cost-effective road transport, since they have driven you to the hotel, you might find it cheaper to use the safari company for safaris rather than using the hotel-provided safaris.
  • Option 2: Check with your chosen accommodation whether they provide this service and the booking requirements.
Impala in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Impala in Khwai Community Area, Botswana

Option 4: International Travel Agents

This option best suits those who value convenience over cost and want their entire trip, including international flights, arranged through one provider. Expect to pay 30%-50% more for your experience than you would if booking through a local operator.

Pros of Booking Through International Travel Agents:

  • Your trip will be organised from end to end, including international flights, transfers, accommodation, and safari experiences.
  • You will have a single point of contact for all your travel arrangements, offering convenience and peace of mind. 
  • You will have location-specific travel protections. For example, UK travellers benefit from Package Travel Regulations and ATOL protection, while US travellers are covered by the Airline Passenger Protection Act and FAA regulations

Top Tip for Travel Protection:

  • You can get similar levels of protection when booking with local operators by:
  • Using credit or debit cards to pay deposits (UK travellers benefit from Section 75 protection)
  • Purchasing comprehensive travel insurance
  • Choosing recommended local operators who accept balance payments closer to departure

Hyena in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Hyena in Khwai Community Area, Botswana

Cons of Booking Through International Travel Agents:

  • This is generally the most expensive booking route.
  • International agents often use local operators’ services anyway, but add substantial markups (30-50% more for the same experience). 
  • You’ll have no direct control over which local operators are engaged, potentially affecting the quality of your experience. 
  • International agents may lack current local knowledge about environmental factors, wildlife movements, and park conditions compared to on-the-ground operators.

My Verdict on Booking Through International Travel Agents:

Beyond simplifying international flight bookings, arranging your safari through international travel agents offers few advantages. You’ll likely get the same safari experience as booking with a local operator but at a considerably higher price.

How to Book Your Safari with an International Travel Agent / Safari Company

  • Comparison sites which provide multiple quotes from verified suppliers such as Safaris By Ella. When you select a luxury budget on the quote request, you will receive a quote from my recommended International safari company as well as my recommended local companies for comparison.

Join the rapidly growing tribe of over 1,000 travellers who’ve booked their dream safari using my insider tips and recommendations.

Wild dog with pups, Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Wild dog with pups, Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Private vs Group Botswana Safaris

Choose between and private or group shared safari is an important decision and we’ll go into the pros and cons of both option below.

Private Botswana Safaris

Private safaris are my personal favourite option which I’d recommend for most safari-goers.

Pros of Private Safaris

  • Everything is customisable including where you go, what times you go for safari, what sightings to go to and how long to spend at each sighting.
  • Tend to be allocated more experienced guides.
  • You can dictate what meals you have.
  • Usually take place in higher-spec safari vehicles.

Cons of Private Safaris

  • More expensive than shared, especially for solo travellers.

Conclusion on Private Safaris

Private safaris are better than shared in most aspects so I’d recommend this option if you have the budget.

Ella Mckendrick on safari truck in Moremi, Botswana
Private Botswana safaris give you total freedom

Group Shared Safaris

Group shared safaris can be a good option for solo travellers looking to meet other travellers and if you’re on a very tight budget.

Pros of Shared Group Safaris

  • Offers the lowest-cost safari.
  • Makes safari more cost-effective for solo travellers.
  • You can meet like-minded travellers.

Cons of Shared Group Safaris

  • No flexibility as they often run at set dates and times. You have no say over what time you go or come back from game drives, which sightings to prioritise and how long to stay at each sighting.
  • A full car of people also means you may not get the best seat.
  • Lots of faffing about and the start and end of the safari as you have to go from camp to camp to pick up everyone which means you miss prime viewing time at in the morning and evening when predators are most active.

Conclusion on Group Shared Safaris

Group safaris can be good for solo travellers who will see the biggest cost savings vs private but I wouldn’t recommend for larger groups. Group safaris sometimes pack a third row of seats in the middle of the truck which gives those in the middle limited views.

Leopard sat under a tree in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Leopard sat under a tree in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana

How Much Does a Botswana Safari Cost?

Botswana is one of the most expensive safari destinations in Africa, with a typical private safari starting from around $500 per person per day. This includes hotels, park fees, all meals, transfers and all activities on your safari.

Shared group safaris cost slightly less. You can expect to pay around $350 per person per day for these. However, this will give you basic camping accommodation.

Male lion by a kill in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Male lion by a kill in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Due to government-mandated limitations on the number of tourists allowed to access the country’s wildlife reserves each year, tourism is quieter than in Africa’s other top safari destinations, but that comes at a higher cost. 

Many different factors affect how much your Botswana safari will cost, from accommodation to park fees and specific activities. However, the below will give you a good estimate of safari costs based on booking through a local operator.

Bar chart showing Botswana safari costs by safari type

Please note that the costs above are for booking through a local operator. Prices will be considerably more expensive if you book through an overseas company or travel agent.

For an in-depth cost breakdown, you can check out my up-to-date guide to Botswana safari costs.

There are three types of safaris in Botswana: budget, mid-level and luxury. The starting price for a private budget safari is around $450 per adult per day. This is notably higher than the starting prices for a private budget safaris in Kenya ($300 per adult per day) and Tanzania ($350 per adult per day)

The most popular type of Botswana safaris are mid-range safaris in what are considered luxury mobile tented camps. These cost around $650 per adult per day, which includes game drive, accommodation, transfers, activities and meals (prices vary a little depending on the season). This figure excludes international flights, tips, and extras.

Ella McKendrick on small safari plane (Cessna Caravan) flying over the Serengeti in Tanzania
Flying between parks is efficient but does add around $350 or more per person each way to the safari cost

A luxury Botswana safari staying in semi-permanent tented camps and/or lodges will typically set you back around $1,300 per adult per day, while the more expensive lodges can cost $7,000 per person per night.

If a private safari is beyond your budget, there are options to join a shared group safari. Group safaris in Botswana start at around $400 per person per day.

You’ll also need to budget for international flights, any medical provisions, malaria tablets, safari-appropriate clothing if you don’t own some already, souvenirs, tips, and any optional additional activities you’d like to do that aren’t included in your safari package. 

Crocodile with elephants in the background in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Crocodile with elephants in the background in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Botswana Safari Costs Breakdown

As you’ll see in the cost breakdown chart below, over 59% of your expenses in Botswana go towards your accommodation, safari vehicle, fuel, and driver guide. Adding another 15% for park and concession fees brings the total to approximately 74%.

The park and concession fees in this distribution are based on a mid-range safari, in which you’ll stay in a luxury mobile tented camp. This option comes with higher overnight concession fees for the safari company, compared to basic camping.

Around 3.4% of your total spend goes towards bank fees, and 13% covers safari company overheads such as insurance and office support staff, which leaves around 9% as the safari company’s profit for organizing your experience.

Below I’ve included a chart which breaks down where the money goes for a safari of two people.

Botswana local safari company costs breakdown

When you compare safari costs in Botswana to those in Kenya and Tanzania, you’ll notice that a larger portion of your budget goes towards accommodation and the vehicle and driver guide. This is because accommodation in Botswana is pricier due to their low-impact tourism model. In addition, the safari vehicles are often of a higher-than-average quality and are more expensive.

Driver guides in Botswana tend to earn more since it’s a wealthier country, and in my experience, they are usually very knowledgeable and well-educated.

Ella Mckendrick's local tour operator offloading my bags in Khwai, Botswana
My local tour operator offloading my bags in Khwai, Botswana.

On the other hand, entrance fees to parks and reserves in Botswana are lower than in Kenya and Tanzania, which helps balance out some of the higher expenses. Park entry fees are relatively minor, costing about $10 per person per day, plus a small vehicle fee for foreign vehicles. This is usually no more than $5 per day

Overnight concession fees range from $30 to $75 per person per night for basic camping, and can reach up to $100 per person per night for luxury camping. This is what you’d expect for a mid-range safari, in which the safari company rents a private campsite with ample space and privacy for setting up a luxury mobile tented camp.

Driver guide at sunset in Moremi, Botswana
Driver guides in Botswana tend to earn more since it’s a wealthier country, and in my experience, they are usually very knowledgeable and well-educated.

Factors Affecting Botswana Safari Costs

There are some variables that typically affect the cost of your safari, from accommodation type to season, to booking agent. The most significant of these is the level of comfort or luxury you opt for in your accommodation.

A luxury safari will of course cost a lot more than a budget one. Another factor determining cost is how you how and through whom you book your safari. Booking with a travel agent will cost more than booking through a local tour operator, for example. 

Let’s unpack some of the factors you should consider as you plan your trip.

Wild dog in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Wild dog in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

How You Book Your Safari 

Typically, an international travel agent or safari company will charge you more for your safari than you would pay if you were to book through operators based in your destination country. This is because international travel agents, who themselves go through the local operators who actually carry out the safari, add their profits over and above the local operators’ prices.

Similarly, booking your safari trips through a hotel can be very expensive. This is because in the absence of other options, hotels tend to inflate the prices of their offerings. 

Booking your safari through a local safari company in your destination country is usually the best value. 

Below you can view a chart of typical budget safari costs based on the booking method.

Botswana budget safari costs comparison

Accommodation Comfort Level 

Another significant factor affecting the cost of your safari will be the level of comfort you choose for your accommodation. Prices for a budget private safari start at around $450 per person per day. In this scenario, you would be staying in a mobile tented camp and you will likely chip in with setting up camp and a few daily chores.

Semi-permanent tented lodge in Khwai, Botswana
Semi-permanent tented lodge in Khwai, Botswana

For a mid-range private safari, which would provide you with a greater level of comfort, you should budget around $650 per person per day. This option would involve staying in a more luxurious mobile tent, equipped with a private bathroom and a real bed. 

A higher-end private safari can easily cost upward of $1300 per person per day. In this option, you would stay in lodges and would have a high level of comfort. Some of the more luxurious lodges can cost as much as $7000 per person per night, or even more.

Botswana mid-range safari in luxury mobile tented camp with proper beds and ensuite bathrooms
Botswana mid-range safari in luxury mobile tented camp with proper beds and ensuite bathrooms

Time of Year

The dry winter season is the busiest season for tourism in Botswana and prices are accordingly high. You can save up to 40% on your accommodation by traveling outside of this peak season, and, proportionally speaking, the savings are greater with the more luxurious accommodation options.

In the wet summer season prices are more affordable, but viewing conditions are not always ideal and some areas, like the Okavango Delta, are not navigable by foot during the wet season.

Alpha Female wild dog feeding her litter of pups. Savuti, Chobe National park, Botswana
Alpha Female wild dog feeding her litter of pups. Savuti, Chobe National park, Botswana. Wild dogs are easiest to see during denning season.

Mode of Transport Between Parks

You’ll save a significant amount of money by traveling by road between the different regions and reserves. In fact, traveling by road won’t cost you anything over and above what you’ve already budgeted in your day rate, as you’re already using the vehicle for game drives.  

Scheduled flights are more convenient, since it’s much quicker to avoid potentially difficult road conditions, but they cost in the region of $300 per person per flight. Also, you’ll miss out on the extra game viewing that comes with road travel.

Ella McKendrick boarding a small 12 seater safari plane (Cessna Grand Caravan)
Boarding a small 12 seater Cessna Grand Caravan safari plane. Luxury safaris may replace longer drives with planes such as this.

Group Size

Whether you’re traveling alone or in a group will affect your overall costs quite significantly. Solo travelers on private safaris will feel the impact of this factor more, as fixed costs such as the vehicle, and guides on river and road, are borne alone. In fact, solo travelers will often end up paying 50% more for their trip than when traveling as a couple. 

When it’s possible to split these costs between two or more people, your travel becomes much more economical. Based on this, the larger your group, the cheaper your safari. That said, each vehicle can usually take a maximum of 7 people, so it’s best not to let your group get larger than than that

Ella Mckendrick photographing an elephant on a Chobe Riverfront safari
Photographing an elephant on a Chobe Riverfront safari

Best Time to Visit Botswana

Botswana is a year-round safari destination, with the exception of the two wettest months: January and February.

There are basically two seasons, dry and wet. Both offer unique opportunities for sightings, although the dry season is preferred by most visitors to Botswana.

I’ll delve into the pros and cons of each season below.

Jump more information on each of the seasons using the links below.

The Dry Season (April – October)

The Green Season (November–April)

Back to Table of Contents

Leopard with kill in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Leopard with kill in Khwai Community Area, Okavango Delta, Botswana

The Dry Season (April – October)

The dry season is best for wildlife sightings generally and for those who don’t mind higher prices and larger crowds.

This is the most popular time of year to visit as the weather is sunny and dry (with minimal chances of rain) and wildlife sightings are abundant.

Quick Facts

Prices: Highest at this time of year.

Weather: Sunny, dry days with minimal chance of rain. Temperatures range from lows of 43°F (6°C) at night to 77°F (25°C) in the day. 

Wildlife: Easy to find as vegetation has died back and they tend to congregate around water sources.

Birding: Plentiful birdlife, though not as good as the green season.

Unique features: Okavango Delta is in full flood, wild dogs are denning so easier to find.

Nights out in the bush can get pretty cold, but the sun shines almost every day with hardly any chance of rain. Humidity is low, and temperatures remain consistent and pleasant, averaging around 43-77°F (6-25°C) in the northern parks during June and July.

These are regarded as the coldest months of the year. In the vast, exposed deserts of the central and southern regions of the Kalahari, temperatures are more extreme. Days are a lot hotter and winter nights are almost freezing. 

During September and October the temperatures start a steep ascent. Although it usually averages at around 93°F (34°C) during the day at this time of year, it can reach up to a pretty warm 100°F (38°C).

As strange as it may sound, it’s during the dry season that the flood waters arrive in the Okavango Delta, having travelled 625 miles (1,000 kms) from their origin in the Angolan highlands to get there.

The flood waters create crystal blue, navigable channels penetrating deep into the jungle, making it possible to explore sections that are not accessible at any other time.  Poling through the winding waterways of the Delta in a tiny mokoro is the most exhilarating way to get really close to the wildlife.

Mokoro (traditional canoe) Khwai Community Area, Botswana.
Mokoro (traditional canoe) Khwai Community Area, Botswana.

As in most parts of Africa, the dry season is the best time to observe wildlife in Botswana. In addition to the favourable weather, the shorter grasses and sparse foliage and vegetation make it easier to spot animals. The animals also tend to spend their days near water sources, which makes it even easier to find them.

The water supply in the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park attracts huge herds of elephants from neighbouring countries such as Angola and Zambia during the dry season. This substantially increases the local population, which is already the largest in Africa. It’s estimated that around 150,000 elephants pass through Botswana every year.

Male lion in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Male lion in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Although the birdlife is best appreciated during the wet months, the permanent supply of water in the evergreen environments of the Okavango and Chobe attracts a healthy population of birds during the dry season too. The wetlands are always teeming with fish eagles, kingfisher, pelicans and many other aquatic species, which nest in the marshes and papyrus-lined shores of the waterways.

Perhaps the only drawback of visiting Botswana during the dry season is that it is the busiest time of the year there. Although the parks never get crowded, flights, accommodation and safari prices are at their highest at this time.

Elephants in khwai, Botswana
The water supply in the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park attracts huge herds of elephants from neighbouring countries such as Angola and Zambia during the dry season.

Pros of The Dry Season (April – October)

  • Excellent game viewing
  • Comfortable day-time temperatures

Cons of The Dry Season (April – October)

  • Busiest time of year for safari
  • Higher prices
Lioness hunting in Khwai, Botswana
Lioness hunting in Khwai, Botswana

The Green Season (November–April)

The Green Season is good for visitors who like it quieter with slightly lower prices as well as keen birders.

The rain starts to fall in November, transforming Botswana into a lush, green wilderness. Whilst days are hot with high chances of rain, wildlife viewing remains fantastic and prices are slightly lower at this time of year.

Quick Facts

Prices: Cheaper than the dry season with savings of up to 50% at high-end lodges 

Weather: Hot and rainy in the north, less rain in the south. Temperatures average 85-95°F (30-35°C) but can be higher. 

Wildlife: Migratory zebras and wildebeest in the central Kalahari region. Good viewing conditions in the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Salt Pans. 

Birding: Abundant birdlife – this is the best time of year for birders!

Unique features: Zebra migration, the Kalahari desert is fabulous at this time of year

January and February are the warmest and wettest months. During these months temperatures hover around 85-95°F (30-35°C), and torrential downpours can be expected mainly in the afternoons. This usually leaves ample time for safaris in the mornings, but sometimes there are periods of continuous rainfall lasting  several days.

Lilac-breasted roller in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Lilac-breasted roller in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

The rainfall starts to decrease and temperatures start to drop during March and April. There is less tourist traffic in the parks and reserves during this time, so it’s an ideal time to visit. 

What’s more, the wet season greens up the landscape and produces some incredibly vibrant backgrounds and colourful skies, making it a favourite time for nature photographers.

In general, Botswana’s wildlife populations are not substantially affected by the seasons and are found everywhere  in large numbers throughout the year. 

Lioness hunting in Khwai, Botswana
Lioness hunting in Khwai, Botswana

There are some special highlights in the green season, though. Unlike the Serengeti Great Migration which takes place during the peak tourist season, the Botswana Zebra Migration takes place during the off season. 

The thousands of zebras and wildebeest appearing in the North in winter return to the central and southern regions in December and January. Having eaten well for several months in the green plains of the north, they arrive back in the South in excellent condition, ready to give birth and raise their young. You can expect to see the landscape teeming with baby animals in the summer months.

Bridge, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Bridge, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

The Makgadikgadi and Nxai Salt Pans are a marvel to see during this time as the pans fill up with water. The dry and desolate salt pans are transformed into a lush green and watery oasis drawing tons of wading birds, including a million or so pink flamingos which come here to build their nests and raise their chicks in the shallows, adding a life and vibrant splash of colour to the landscape.

The water also draws herds of gemsbok, springbok, zebras, giraffes, wildebeest and other herbivores, which in turn bring out the lions and cheetahs. This increases your chances of witnessing a kill.

Red lechwes in Moremi Game, Okavango Delta, Reserve Botswana
Red lechwes in Moremi Game, Okavango Delta, Reserve Botswana

Although Botswana is a great year-round destination for birders, the best time to visit Botswana is definitely between November and April. Migratory species flock here to escape the harsh winters of the northern hemisphere.

The local birds are also extremely active and vocal in song at this time, as they prepare for their annual courtship. The males are dressed in the brightest plumage and perform some extravagant dances to attract their mates. However, the dense green foliage may hamper viewing conditions somewhat.

For budget-conscious travellers, the wet season is a good time to visit Botswana. The parks and lodges are not busy, and prices are at their lowest. However, the biggest savings tend to be on luxury accommodation which can be up to 50%.

burchell's coucal bird, Khwai, Botswana
Burchell’s coucal, Khwai, Botswana

Pros of Green Season (November–April)

  • Many baby animals
  • Beautiful green landscape
  • Less visitor numbers
  • Lower prices

Cons of The Green Season (November–April)

  • Rain affects viewing conditions and makes some roads impassible.
  • Mokoro trips aren’t possible

Self driving can quickly become hazardous
Self-driving can quickly become hazardous due to deep hidden potholes. This was actually a normal road which quickly flooded after heavy rain and trapped inexperienced drivers. Luckily my experienced driver guide knew not to attempt a crossing. This driver was lucky as we were able to rescue him but the car was ruined with water damage.

How Long to Spend in Botswana

Three weeks is ideal for visitors who wish to explore Botswana in-depth at a leisurely pace, without missing out on any of Botswana’s key sights. That said, if your budget or calendar doesn’t allow for this, a 10 day Botswana safari itinerary will still provide you with an exceptional experience, taking you to the country’s highlights.

Lioness in golden hour
Lioness in golden hour

Botswana Safari Logistics

Although local tour operators can handle most of your travel and safari logistics, there are still a couple of things you need to consider and organise. 

Visa & Entry Requirements

No visas are required for visitors to Botswana from the USA, UK, Canada, Australia and most of the EU countries, for trips of up to 90 days.

Ensure that your passport is valid for at least 6 months after your return, and that it has at least three blank pages. And if you’re travelling with children under 17 years old, you’ll need to carry a certified copy of their birth certificates.

You can view up to date entry requirements based on your country below.

Sunset in Moremi, Botswana
Sunset in Moremi, Botswana

Vaccinations

Ordinarily, no mandatory vaccinations are required for travel in Botswana, but if you’ve recently visited a country listed as a high risk yellow fever country, a vaccination certificate will be required.

However, vaccinations for Hepatitis A and B, Typhoid, Rabies and Tetanus are often recommended, especially if you’re visiting the wetlands in the Okavango and Chobe, but none are mandatory.

You can view a full up-to-date list on the UK NHS travel website here.

Medications

If you’re taking any medication for an existing condition, ensure that you have sufficient supply for the entire trip. You’ll most likely be travelling through some remote areas far from pharmacies or medical facilities.

Medical care is pretty efficient in the bigger towns in Botswana, but less so in the outer rural areas where you’ll be going. If an emergency arises and you need to be evacuated, you will probably be taken to a private hospital, where costs will be high. Ensure your travel insurance has sufficient cover for such a possibility.   

Malaria is present in Botswana, particularly in the northern areas like the marshlands of the Okavango and Chobe, where mosquitos are more prevalent. The threat of contracting malaria is even higher in the warmer months between November and April.

Close encounter with some elephants in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Close encounter with some elephants in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

In addition to a basic first-aid kit with anti-diarrhoea tablets, rehydration sachets, an antiseptic cream, and a few plasters, pack a good supply of mosquito repellent and spray all exposed body parts whilst on safaris, especially after dark.    

You should always take out travel health insurance when going abroad, and this is true for Botswana too. Healthcare in the country is good in cities and larger towns but can be limited in other areas. If you have a health emergency, you may require medical evacuation or treatment in a private hospital where costs will be high, so make sure the level of medical cover on your policy is sufficient.

Wild dogs resting during the day in Savuti, Botswana
Wild dogs resting during the day in Savuti, Botswana

Border Crossings

The itinerary I’m about to share includes a trip across the Zimbabwean border to Victoria Falls. Cross-border requirements are pretty simple and can be handled on the same day that you travel. You can purchase a 30-day single-entry visa at the border post for $30 for US and $55 for UK citizens. If you want to view the falls from the Zambian side as well, you would need a multi-entry visa, which costs around $50.

Old buffalo on Chobe River Front boat safari
Old buffalo on Chobe River Front boat safari. They come here to retire as the grass is very soft.

3-Week Botswana Safari Overview

I have absolutely no doubt that this 3-week Botswana safari itinerary will give you some of the most memorable wildlife encounters of your life. During these three weeks you will have the total experience of Botswana’s true wilderness, from the dry arid deserts of the Kalahari to the lush green woodlands, open plains and marshes of the famed Okavango Delta and Chobe Game Reserve.

Lioness stretching in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Lioness stretching in Khwai Community Area, Botswana

Three weeks will afford you ample time to participate in unique activities in some of the wildest, remotest places on earth that are home to abundant game populations. Other than normal game drives, you can embark on walking safaris, boating cruises and mokoro trips along the winding waterways of the Okavango Delta and Chobe, two of the finest wildlife sanctuaries in the world. 

As the grand finale of this itinerary, you will have the opportunity to witness one of the world’s grandest natural wonders – the famed Victoria Falls. Also called Mosi-oa-Tunya, the falls are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If time or budget do not allow a 3-week itinerary, you could also opt for a shorter 10-day Botswana safari which will give you an almost equally unforgettable experience.

Here is a map of the itinerary route.

3-week botswana itinerary map
3-week botswana itinerary map

Quick Facts:

Average driving time per day: 2 hours
Best times of year: The dry season between May and the end of October

Day by Day Breakdown of the Ultimate 3-Week Botswana Safari Itinerary

Arriving from Johannesburg into Maun. Airlink is the best option, in my experience, to get to Maun, Botswana
Arriving from Johannesburg into Maun. Airlink is the best option, in my experience, to get to Maun, Botswana

Day 1: Maun

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 15 minutes

A small town in northern Botswana, Maun is the starting point of your 3-week safari itinerary. Maun is considered the gateway to the Okavango Delta. 

Outside Maun Airport, Botswana
Outside Maun Airport, Botswana

Itinerary

You’ll fly into Maun, usually from either Johannesburg or Cape Town in South Africa. Flights into Maun Airport usually arrive at 13:00 or 14:00, giving you the afternoon to spend at your leisure. Relax in and around your lodge, or set out to explore the town. You could, of course, also arrive a day or two earlier to allow for any possible flight delays, giving you more time to relax in Maun and prepare for your 3-week adventure.

Marc's Eatery in Maun, Botswana
Marc’s Eatery in Maun, Botswana. Tasty, home-cooked food and great value.

About Maun

Maun is a quiet little town on the outer reaches of the Okavango Delta. Home to the headquarters of several safari tour operators and airline companies, it is regarded as the ‘tourism capital’ of Botswana. The airport is conveniently situated just 15 minutes from the town centre.

The town spreads across both sides of the Thamalakane River, which flows southwards into the Boteti River. You will encounter this river in its wildest form when you visit the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans.

The Thamalakane River which splits Maun. Botswana was dry in this picture as the rains were late
The Thamalakane River which splits Maun. Botswana was dry in this picture as the rains were late

Where to Spend the Night

It’s best to have your local tour operator pick you up at the airport and take you to your chosen lodge.

There are a small number of lodges to choose from, and a good choice would be a mid-range lodge called The Waterfront. In a relatively quiet and peaceful area overlooking the river, the Waterfront lies a short distance north of the town centre, and a mere 15 minutes’ drive from the airport.

My room at The Waterfront, Maun, Botswana
My room at The Waterfront, Maun, Botswana

Things to Do in Maun

If you’re spending a few days here, there are interesting things to see and do before you set off on your safari adventure. Here are just a few options.

1. Visit Marc’s Eatery for dinner

The excellent Marc’s Eatery serves a range of home-made local, continental, Asian and Middle Eastern dishes in a courtyard setting set amongst a few shops. You really can’t go wrong with any of their dishes. They also have a delectable takeaway deli range, and pack a pretty mean lunchbox for your road trips into the game reserves. Their cakes are also excellent. Marc’s Eatery is situated on Sir Seretse Khama Road, near the northern end of the airport runway, five minutes from the town centre.

Marc's Eatery in Maun, Botswana
Marc’s Eatery in Maun, Botswana
2. Hang Out at The Duck Cafe and Buy Souvenirs

Conveniently located a stone’s throw from the main airport terminal, the Duck Café is another wonderful eatery and watering hole, serving a neat selection of home-made breakfast and lunch dishes as well pastries, cakes and other yummy stuff. It also serves the best coffees in Maun.

Ella McKendrick at the Duck Cafe in Maun, Botswana
Enjoying a coffee at the Duck Cafe in Maun, Botswana

There is a craft shop inside the restaurant where you can buy some unique Botswana souvenirs. Another great place for souvenirs is Jazella’s Craft Shop, just across the road. Jazella’s is crammed with gorgeous, handmade goodies including jewellery, fabrics, sandals, postcards, tourist information books, exquisite lamps and even hammocks. Prices can be a little steep, so be prepared to haggle.

The Duck Cafe in Maun, Botswana
The Duck Cafe in Maun, Botswana
3. Visit the Nhabe Museum

Literally round the corner, just five minutes’ walk from the Duck Café, you’ll find the Nhabe Museum. It’s worth spending an hour or so at this small museum to get acquainted with the history and customs of the local people. The museum boasts fascinating displays of local historical artefacts, arts and crafts, and also has a small shop where you can buy locally made baskets, pottery, screen prints, paintings, and many ethnic artworks.

The historic building that houses the museum was built by the British settlers in 1939 and was used as a surveillance post to keep track of German activities in Namibia during World War II.

4. Take a Scenic Helicopter Flight

If you want to get a bird’s eye view of the Okavango Delta and have some extra cash to spare, there’s nothing better than taking a scenic helicopter ride. Flights usually last for about 45 minutes, which gives you ample time to take in the breathtaking scenery and take some pictures from the open sides.

If you’re spending a few days here and have more time, there are more elaborate options over and above the 45 minute flights. Picture flying over the delta and landing on a remote island or scenic spot for a sip of champagne, or at a posh lodge for a luxurious meal. Cruising above the intricate, winding waterways of the delta, you are likely to catch your first glimpse of the wildlife. Look out for elephants, buffaloes and giraffes, whose long necks stick out above the jungle canopy.

Aerial view of Ella Mckendrick in Moremi, Botswana
Aerial view of Botswana

Tips for Visiting Maun

  • The town is quite spread out, and is best navigated by taxi. Taxis are relatively cheap in Maun and can be waved down in the street or arranged by your accommodation. There is no Uber here. 
  • Although petty crime is not much of a problem here, as with anywhere in the world, you should take some precautions. The most important tip is to avoid walking on your own in dark or secluded areas. Keep the doors of your accommodation locked and windows shut while you’re out. Also keep your valuables out of sight, and when out avoid wearing flashy jewellery that might catch the eye of a pickpocket. 
  • If you take an evening stroll along the riverfront when the river is present, don’t venture too close to the water. Crocodiles call this river home.

My Experience Visiting Maun

I felt very safe and relaxed in this tranquil, sleepy town. The locals were friendly and respectful, and I didn’t at all feel uncomfortable or pressured to buy curios, for example.  I ate at Marc’s Eatery every night and enjoyed my lunches at The Duck Cafe. Breakfasts at the Waterfront B&B were delicious and the staff were very helpful.

The outside of the room at The Waterfront, Maun, Botswana
The outside of the room at The Waterfront, Maun, Botswana

Day 2: Maun to Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 5 hours drive or 30-45 minute flight

Day 2 heralds the start of your 3-week safari in Botswana, and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve is your first port of call. 

You can either take a scenic 5 hour drive or a quick 30-45 minute flight to your lodge or tented camp in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, which is situated about 125 miles (200 kms) south of Maun.

Cheetah hunting
Cheetah sightings are possible in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Itinerary

If you’ve chosen the drive, you’ll be picked up from your lodge early on the morning of departure to ensure that you arrive at the reserve in time for lunch at your lodge. If you’ve chosen a mobile safari you’ll stop for a picnic lunch at a picturesque spot somewhere along the road.

In the afternoon, you’ll set off on your first game drive and get to meet some of Botswana’s wildlife. Assuming you’re visiting in the dry season, you’ll be met with a mostly flat and dry landscape. The scrubby grasslands are dotted with occasional bushes, mopane trees, salt pans and watering holes, and are crisscrossed by dusty tracks as far as the eye can see.

Ella McKendrick enjoying a morning tea break
Enjoying a morning tea break

Within this seemingly desolate expanse of true wilderness, you’re bound to come across abundant wildlife including some of the hardiest animals on our planet. At the top of the food chain are lions, leopards and cheetahs, as well as spotted and brown hyenas and wild dogs. Herbivores include the distinctive gemsbok, wildebeest, springbok, eland, hartebeest, kudu, zebras and giraffes. 

As the sun begins to set, you will return to your lodge or mobile camp in time for dinner and a rest. However, the show is not over. It’s now time for Africa’s sound and light show.  Since you’re in such a remote location with no light pollution, you’ll see millions of stars sparkle across the pitch black night sky, while the sounds of the wildlife continue throughout the night, soothing you sleep.

If you’re lucky, you may hear the deep roar of a lion in the distance – a sound not easily forgotten. This is what the next two days and nights have in store for you.

Springbok are a common site in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve
Springbok are a common site in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve

About the Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Covering an area twice the size of Wales (United Kingdom), this game reserve is not only the largest in Southern Africa, and the second largest in the world, but it’s also in one of the most remote areas on our planet.

The Central Kalahari Game Reserve is known for being the home of the famed black-maned lions, while the vast open and flat terrain provides the perfect hunting grounds for Africa’s speed queens, the cheetahs.

The northern regions of the park tend to be more popular for visitors, since they have the best grazing and more watering holes to attract more predators and other game. The watering holes also attract enormous numbers of bird species, including ostriches, kori bustards and flamingos. 

Black-maned male lion in Botswana
Black-maned male lion in Botswana

Be sure to visit Deception Valley, situated in the far northeastern corner of the reserve. It’s famed for its high population of predators and, as the name suggests, it has some pretty unusual features. The salt pan is encircled by an eerie, red-coloured grass, while the blue clay gives the impression from a distance that it is in fact water. The truth is that the salt pan is bone-dry, and has deceived innumerable travellers and aviators over the years. It is, however, a very photogenic site and is popular with nature photographers.

The wet season is a special time to visit this reserve, as with the arrival of the rains, usually from around November and December, the dry, inhospitable, desert-like landscape is transformed into a carpet of lush tall green grasslands. The dry salt pans fill with water, drawing thousands of animals and birds. 

Even when it’s officially the wet season, it doesn’t rain in this region every day. This means that safaris at this time of year can be very rewarding.

Leopards can be spotted in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve
Leopards can be spotted in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Tips for Travelling to Central Kalahari Game Reserve

  • Be prepared for bumpy roads, and carry a neck pillow if you need to sleep.
  • Regardless of the time of year you visit, the nights get bitterly cold here. Be sure to pack sufficient warm clothing for your trip.
  • There is no electricity or internet signal here, so it’s a good idea to have downloaded audio books if you plan to read on the road. Ensure all your electronics are fully charged and have spare batteries for your camera.

Where to Spend the Night

Where you’ll be spending the night will depend on the type of safari you have chosen. Staying in a permanent lodge or tented camp is the most luxurious and high-budget option, and there are a number of lodges to choose from. Another possibility is a mobile safari which is by far the most popular option. Typically with mobile camping, camps are already set up when you arrive, your food is prepared, and you get to sleep on a proper bed with an en suite bathroom in your tent. 

Regardless of what you choose, your accommodation will be inside the reserve with easy access to the prime viewing areas.

Communal dining area in my luxury mobile tented camp accommodation in Botswana
Communal dining area in my luxury mobile tented camp accommodation in Botswana

Days 3 – 4: Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 0

Over the next two days you will be going on two game drives each day and you’ll spend the rest of the time at your leisure, relaxing in and around your lodge or campsite. 

Itinerary

Your morning game drive starts at 06:30. This is the best time for seeing wildlife as this is when the animals are most active. Sunrises here are pure magic! Your guide will choose an area most likely to offer you the best game viewing, which will probably be close to a watering hole. As the day warms up, the animals usually try to escape the hot sun, heading for shady areas. You will follow them and proceed towards some of the densely wooded areas of the park.

This is where you stand a good chance of spotting lions and the elusive leopards, which spend the warmest part of the day conserving their energy by resting in the shade. 

Cheetah hunting
Cheetah hunting

At 11:30 you will return to your lodge or mobile camp and prepare for lunch. If you’re on a mobile safari, now is a good time to have a shower as the days are usually warm. Showering in the evenings is freezing. 

At 15:30, you’ll set off on your evening game drive. At this time of day, you’ll experience  different sightings than on the morning drives. This is particularly true during the latter part of the drive, as during the last hour of sunlight the predators start to become more active as they prepare for the night’s hunt. Staying on safari as late as possible maximises your chances of witnessing a kill. It’s also the time to be on the lookout for some of the smaller nocturnal species, like wild cats and honey badgers. These are not often spotted during the day.

The fading light also produces some magical scenery. It’s an excellent time for great photographs, particularly with the spectacular sunsets you can expect. You’ll normally return to your lodge or camp around 18:30, in time for dinner and the nighttime star show.

Leopard on a tree
Leopard on a tree

Tips for Visiting Central Kalahari Game Reserve

  • Make sure you visit the picturesque Deception Valley and Piper’s Pan. These spots are spectacular in and of themselves, but also boast dense concentrations of game, particularly predators. 
  • Camps are unfenced and wild animals, including lions and hyenas, often wander around them at night. Be extra vigilant around your camp after dark.
  • Avoid wearing bright or dark colours on safari. Stick to natural neutral colours to blend in with the surroundings.
  • As you’ll most likely be in an open 4×4 vehicle on your game drives, wear a wide brimmed hat and sunblock.
  • Although mosquitos are not as prevalent here as they are in the northern marshy region, spray all exposed parts of your body with insect repellent throughout the day, and especially after dark. 
  • For big game viewing, the best time to visit here is during dry winter months. However, for bird lovers, the wet season is a good time.  The summer rains fill the salt pans with freshwater and attract dozens of aquatic and other bird species in their thousands. 
  • Signposting is not so good, and self-drivers can easily get lost in the vastness of this remote park. A good idea would be to have various points stored on your GPS for quick reference.

Where to Spend the Night

You could choose to stay in the same lodge throughout your visit here, but this reserve is vast and your tour operator may have suggested that you stay in a different section each night. This will give you the opportunity to explore a wider area of the reserve without having to travel far on each game drive. If you’re on a mobile safari, you would be moving camp each day anyway. 

Botswana mid-range safari in luxury mobile tented camp. Picture showing starts over tent accommodation at night.
Botswana mid-range safari in luxury mobile tented camp. Picture showing starts over tent accommodation at night.

Day 5: Central Kalahari Game Reserve to Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 5 hours drive or 30-45 minute flight

Once again you have the option of driving for 5 hours or catching a 30-45 minute flight to the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park.

Itinerary

If you’re traveling by road, you’ll need to set off really early to arrive at your new location in time for lunch and a short rest before embarking on an afternoon game drive. Lunch will either be at your lodge or a picnic if you’re on a mobile safari. If you’re flying, you will have more time to relax at your new lodge or explore the immediate surroundings.

You can expect a similar terrain and variety of wildlife in this region, although there may be a lot more zebra and wildebeest than in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Expect to find lions, leopards, cheetahs and a similar range of antelope, and look out for tiny meerkats.  If you’re lucky you may just get your first glimpse of elephants and buffaloes, although they are rare in these parts. 

This area is also home to huge herds of zebras, which migrate to the northern regions of the Okavango and Chobe during the dry season and return around December and January when the summer rains have greened up the landscape and filled the salt pans with fresh water.

As the sun sets you’ll be taken to your lodge or mobile camp in time for dinner.

Zebra taking part in the migration
Zebra taking part in the migration

About Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Along with the smaller Nxai Salt Pan a short distance to the north, the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans form the largest salt pans in the world. It is believed that the pans are the remains of a massive, ancient lake covering 30,000 square miles (80,000 kms²) roughly 50,000 years ago, which would have covered the entire area, including the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park, with water.

Tectonic plate movement caused the waters to drain away into the Zambezi River, flowing through Mozambique before emptying into the Indian Ocean. These changes left behind a mineral-rich, snow-white dusty bowl. Animals gather here and are often seen licking the ground to get their daily dose of salts and minerals. This is nature’s own pharmacy.

This park is home to some of the biggest and most ancient baobab trees in Africa, some believed to be over 5,000 years old. The baobabs make great photographic subjects.

Ancient baobab tree in Botswana
Ancient baobab trees in Botswana

There are two totally different faces to this unique park. During the dry season it is a bone-dry, dusty landscape where only the hardiest creatures can survive. But during the rainy season, however, the pans transform into a massive lake.

The barren lunar-like landscape becomes a vibrant oasis filled to the brim with life. It is a birder’s paradise, hosting hundreds of bird species, including ostriches, pelicans, saddle-billed storks, and ducks and geese of every colour and size. No words can do justice to the scene when around a million flamingos arrive here at once, painting the ground and skies a luminous shade of pink. This is the largest flamingo colony in the world, and when they take flight it’s breathtaking!

The densely wooded Boteti River, which flows across almost the entire western boundary of the park, is usually the haunt of the famous Kalahari black-maned lions, as well as other wildlife.  You may also spot an elusive leopard hiding in the trees, if you’re lucky. The deeper pools tend to be home to herds of hippos.

Meerkat in Namib Desert, Namibia, Africa
Meerkat on the lookout!

Tips for Visiting Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

  • Well worth seeing is Africa’s first ever mailbox! One of the biggest baobab trees in this park was used extensively by explorers David Livingstone and Courteney Selous, who ‘posted’ letters to each other as they travelled across Africa by leaving them in slots carved out in the trunk. Your guide will know where to find this famous tree. 
  • Keep your eyes peeled close to the ground during dawn and dusk and you may just see some of the rare and smaller nocturnal creatures, like aardvark, porcupines, honey badgers and bat-eared foxes.

Where to Spend the Night

Regardless of whether you’re staying in a permanent lodge or on a mobile safari, you’ll probably be located on the western border of the park close to the Boteti River, where much of the wildlife can be found throughout the year. You could also choose to stay at the stylish Jack’s Camp, complete with a swimming pool and stunning views of the pan, or at the San Pan, which puts you in the heart of the actual salt pan.

Bed inside a luxury camping safari tent in Khwai, Botswana
Inside the bedrooms of a luxury mobile tented camp (glamping). I had some of the best night’s sleep of my life in this bed with the sounds of nature all around me! Getting up at 5:30am for early morning safaris probably helped me sleep like a baby too!

Day 6: Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 0 hours

This is your only full day in this park, so try to be up and ready really early so you can make the most of it.

Itinerary

Once again, your day will include a morning and an afternoon game drive to explore the different sections of the park. It’s only when you actually arrive and lay eyes on the pan for the first time that you realise the sheer size of it. It covers an area of 1,500 square miles (3,900 kms²), and the lake it forms during the wet season is just as big.

You may also have the option to take a quad bike tour, or a horseback or walking safari accompanied by a San guide, or even a scenic flight to see the pan from above. This will give you a real sense of scale. If you prefer something more sedentary, you can visit a meerkat colony and meet some of the curious little fellows that are able to survive in these extreme conditions.

Lioness yawning in Botswana
Lioness yawning in Botswana

As in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, nights and early mornings are bitterly cold, reaching freezing at times. So if you’re on a mobile safari, taking a lunch time shower is a better bet than waiting until the evening. As the days are usually dry and sunny during the winter months, remember to plaster yourself with sunscreen while out on your game drives.

Where to Spend the Night

It may be best to stay in the same lodge as the night before. If you’re on a mobile safari, your camp may have moved to a different area of the park.

Young spotted hyena, Botswana
Young spotted hyena coming right up the the safari truck in Botswana

Day 7: Makgadikgadi Pans National Park to Nxai Pan National Park

Total drive time (excluding game drives):  1-2 hour drive

Today you set off to the smaller but equally fascinating Nxai Pan National Park, located a short distance to the northwest.

Itinerary

Depending on where you set off from, the drive to Nxai should take 1-2 hours, allowing you ample time to relax at your lodge or camp before going out on an afternoon game drive. 

The range of wildlife here is pretty similar to Makgadikgadi.. There is a high concentration of herbivores such as gemsbok, kudu, wildebeest, zebras, giraffes, elephants and even the occasional buffalo. Predators include lions, cheetahs, brown and spotted hyenas, jackals and bat-eared foxes. 

Around 18:30, as the sun starts to set, you’ll return to your lodge or mobile camp.

Leopard at sunset in Botswana
Leopard at sunset in Botswana

About Nxai Pan National Park

The landscape of Nxai Pan National Park is very similar to that of Makgadikgadi. The pan is part of the ancient lake that has dried up leaving behind a flat, arid terrain of short grasslands accented by clusters of acacia, mopane and some impressive baobab trees.

The smallest of Botswana’s Kalahari parks, it still covers an area of just under 1,000 square miles (2,578 kms²).

The most popular area, with animals and game seekers, is around the pan itself, which lies close to the main entrance. If you’re visiting during the dry season, you’ll find an arid landscape, with most of the animals hovering close to the watering holes.

Elephants congregate around watering holes in the dry season.
Elephants congregate around watering holes in the dry season.

In the wet season, the grasses green up, the watering holes fill with fresh water and the whole area bursts into life. This season is crowned by the arrival of tens of thousands of zebras and wildebeest returning from their migration, making it an exciting time to visit.

Another popular, and extremely photogenic, spot is the Baines Baobabs, where your guide will undoubtedly take you. Situated in the southern region of the park, this is a large cluster of huge baobab trees which tower above the ground, serving as an oasis in the middle of the otherwise desolate landscape. They have been named after the English explorer and naturalist, Thomas Baines, who accompanied David Livingstone during the 1850s and immortalised the trees in his paintings.

Tips for Visiting Nxai Pan National Park

  • The wet summer months are a good time to witness a staggering number of zebras, gemsbok and wildebeest, as well as the arrival of thousands of baby animals.
  • To make the most of the day, it’s best to be on the road as early as possible to catch the animals when they’re most active.
Black-maned male lion in Botswana
Black-maned male lion in Botswana

Where to Spend the Night

If you’re on a mobile safari, you’ll probably set up camp around the pan, close to the major game viewing sites.

Day 8: Nxai Pan National Park

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 0 hours

You have the full day to explore this park, starting with your morning game drive. You could also take an informative walk accompanied by a San Bushman tracker to learn about their hunting and survival skills and their ancient customs and traditions. Their knowledge of the bush is astounding. 

Itinerary

Your day will begin with a morning game drive from  06:30 to 11:30, with a pause under a cluster of trees for a cup of coffee and a rusk. As the sun rises and the day warms up, animals will usually seek shelter amongst the trees. This is your best place to find lions and cheetahs and other game. You could also find them around the watering holes. 

You will return to your camp or lodge for lunch, and this would be a good time to have a shower while the day is still warm. Around 15:30 you’ll go out for your final game drive.

Where to Spend the Night

Lioness with wildebeest kill in Botswana
Lioness with wildebeest kill in Botswana

Overnight at the same lodge, or at your mobile camp. 

Day 9: Nxai Pan National Park to Moremi Game Reserve (Okavango Delta)

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 6 hours drive or 1 hour flight

Today you will say goodbye to Nxai National Park and prepare for a complete change of scenery. The dry and dusty expanses will give way to some of the lushest wetlands and jungles in Africa.

Itinerary

Once again you have the option of taking a 6 hour drive or a one hour flight to Moremi Game Reserve, which is situated a few hundred miles northwest of the Nxai Pan.

The drive is wonderfully scenic, and is an opportunity to see more of Botswana’s landscapes and wildlife.

Red lechwes in Moremi Game, Okavango Delta, Reserve Botswana
Red lechwes in Moremi Game, Okavango Delta, Reserve Botswana

Alternatively, the flight will enable you to view the elaborate winding crystal blue waterways of the Okavango Delta from above and take some stunning pictures.

Either way, you’ll be lunching at your lodge or mobile camp in Moremi. After a short rest you’ll embark on an afternoon game drive and get your first taste of the famed Okavango Delta. 

You’ll be met with some of the densest concentrations of wildlife in Africa, including the Big Five, in what many people claim to be the most beautiful part of the country. There is water everywhere here. Along the shores of the many rivers, tributaries, lagoons and waterways of the delta, you’ll find elephants, buffalos, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest and numerous antelope species including the rare red lechwe. Predators will include lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, jackals, wild dogs and some smaller cat species.

Around 6.30 pm you will return to your lodge or mobile camp in time for dinner.

Elephants near the blue waters of the Okavango Delta in Moremi, Botswana
Elephants near the blue waters of the Okavango Delta in Moremi, Botswana

About Moremi Game Reserve

Moremi Game Reserve is one of the most scenic game reserves in Botswana. Taking up approximately one third of the entire Okavango Delta, its landscape is a mix of open, lush and evergreen grasslands, thick mopane woodlands and acacia forests, all intersected by hundreds of miles of rivers, lagoons, islands and crystal blue waterways.

The papyrus lined shores are teeming with aquatic birds, including fish eagles, kingfishers, skimmers and hundreds of other feathered species. Crocodiles and hippos share these watery worlds with tigerfish, bream, tilapia and monstrous catfish.

Although Moremi, and in fact the whole of the Okavango, can be visited throughout the year, the best time to be there is during the dry winter months. This is for a number of reasons. Having traveled from the Angolan highlands, the flood waters arrive during this period, creating navigable channels that penetrate deep into the forest.

These routes are ideal for boat cruises and mokoro trips. However, some camps are forced to close down when the flood waters get too high. 

Mokoro (traditional canoe) Botswana
Mokoro (traditional canoe) Botswana

The dry season is also the best time to visit the many islands formed in the delta, the most famous of which is Chief’s Island. Here you can see large numbers of both black and white rhinos. These endangered creatures are kept on this island to protect them from poachers who are a constant threat across the whole of Africa. The island is teeming with other wildlife too. Chief’s Island can only be reached by boat or helicopter.

The islands can also be visited during the rainy season, as it doesn’t rain every day. But you may have to contend with high temperatures and humidity.

Moremi is also known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive lodges in Africa, which provide exceptional amenities and out-of-this-world scenery. Sunsets anywhere near the water are sublime, with magical blood red skies reflecting across the tranquil surfaces of the waterways.

Meyer's parrot in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Meyer’s parrot in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Tips for Travelling to Moremi Game Reserve

  • As with many roads in Botswana, the roads and bush tracks in Moremi are rough in places, so prepare for bumpy and uncomfortable rides. But the scenery will more than compensate for that.
  • If you’re flying, most planes only allow a maximum of 20-25 lbs (10-12 kgs) baggage per person, so pack wisely. Luckily some lodges and mobile camps offer laundry services so you don’t have to bring your whole wardrobe.

Where to Spend the Night

There are many lodges to choose from in Moremi, however most are high-end and quite costly. You even have the option of staying at a lodge on Chief’s Island.

If you prefer a mobile safari, you have several options with varying levels of comfort to choose from. The most popular mobile camping safari option is a non-participatory safari where staff do everything for you and you get to sleep in large, comfortable tents, on proper beds and with private bathrooms.

Red lechwes in Moremi Game, Okavango Delta, Reserve BotswanaRed lechwes in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Red lechwes in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana

My Experience Visiting Moremi Game Reserve

Moremi Game Reserve is home to some of my most memorable safari experiences. I spent three nights here, staying in the Xakanaxa area, and particularly enjoyed the incredible sunsets and seemingly endless game viewing opportunities.

I had my first side-striped jackal sighting, and enjoyed watching a family of elephants silhouetted in the early evening light, kicking up orange dust as they crossed the road right behind us. Perhaps my favourite sighting however was of an elusive male leopard one evening, barely visible in the fading pink light.

You can watch a video of my experience visiting Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango Delta below.

Red-billed hornbill in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Red-billed hornbill in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Days 10-11: Moremi Game Reserve (Okavango Delta)

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 0 hours

You will be spending the next two full days exploring the different areas of Moremi at your leisure, going on game drives, walking safaris or mokoro trips along the winding waterways of the delta.

Moremi Game Reserve Map

Moremi Game Reserve (Okavango Delta) Map (Botswana)
Moremi Game Reserve (Okavango Delta) Map

Itinerary

A typical day on safari in Moremi goes something like this:

By now you will have become used to waking up with the birds and being in the bush before the sun rises every day. The early mornings normally yield more sightings in the open grasslands and around the water shorelines. You will have ample time to explore the different habitats of the delta, driving past open meadows teeming with antelope, buffaloes, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest and other herbivore species. 

As the sun climbs up in the sky and the day warms up, it’s a good time to take a mokoro trip with a local poler, who will take you deep into the bush along the blue navigable waterways.

Hippo in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Hippo in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana

This is one of the most exhilarating experiences on offer in the Okavango, and something you really shouldn’t miss out on. In earlier times, mokoros were made out of hollowed out tree trunks, but technology finally found its way to the jungles of Botswana and today’s models are made of fibreglass.

During the midday period you might want to explore the wooded areas and floodplains where lions, leopards, cheetahs and other predators hang out to escape the heat of the day. Keep an eye out for wild dogs, as these characters are constantly on the move and can be quite elusive.

Impala in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Impala in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana

After lunch and a short rest you’ll head back into the bush at 3.30 pm for your late afternoon game drive. Your guide will make sure you’re back at your camp by 6:30 pm, which is curfew time in Moremi. 

The last hour of sunlight produces some incredible scenery and makes for the best photographs. Every single day in the Okavango Delta, there is a real possibility that you will capture an iconic shot: just imagine a red sunset reflecting on the waters, with a splashing elephant silhouetted in the foreground. Scenes like this are totally normal here. Add to this spectacle the haunting cry of a fish eagle, and you’re bound never to forget your experience in this part of the world. 

Tips for Visiting Moremi Game Reserve

  • Assuming you’re visiting during the dry season, it’s best to take a shower during your midday break, while the day is warm. It gets bitterly cold in the evenings when you return from your afternoon game drives.
  • Lodges and mobile camps are not fenced and animals may wander around your camp or on your front porch at any time, especially after dark. While you’re surrounded by water, the chances of being visited by a hefty hippo during the night are real. Be sure not to leave any food lying around, as you don’t want to receive any nighttime visitors.

Where to Spend the Night

Same place as the previous night, whether you’re staying in a lodge or mobile campsite.

Leopard in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Leopard in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

Day 12: Moremi Game Reserve to Khwai Community Area

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 4 hours drive or 30-45 minutes by plane

This morning you say goodbye to Moremi and head out to the Khwai Community Area. Here you’ll get to enjoy an extra treat that is not permitted in any other area of the Okavango – night game drives.

Itinerary

You have the option of traveling to Khwai Community Area on a quick 30-45 minute flight or a 4 hour scenic drive. The drive option can feel just like being on safari.

If you’re on a mobile safari, you may stop for lunch at a scenic location alongside a watering hole, and you’ll hopefully be joined by some of the wildlife. Alternatively, you may want to have lunch at your selected lodge. 

After lunch and a good rest, you’ll embark on an evening game drive. 

South African springhare spotted on a night game drive in Khwai, Botswana
South African springhare spotted on a night game drive in Khwai, Botswana

An evening game drive is something truly special, as it gives you the opportunity to see some of the rarer creatures of the jungle that only come out after dark. You never know what lies around each corner. Apart from lions, leopards, cheetahs and hyenas, which all do most of their hunting in the dark, keep your eyes and ears peeled for some of the smaller creatures like civets, genets, porcupines, bush babies, the rare odd-looking aardvark and the critically endangered pangolins.

Hippos also prefer to be out and about in the cool of the night, venturing onto land to graze on the lush grasses alongside the water. While in this vulnerable state, they are sometimes ambushed by prides of lions. 

After what may just  be the most exciting game drive of your life, you’ll return to your lodge or mobile camp where you’ll spend the night.

Leopard spotted on a night game drive in Khwai, Botswana
Leopard spotted on a night game drive in Khwai, Botswana

About Khwai Community Area

The Khwai Community Area is a private concession area owned by the indigenous San people and forms part of the northeastern reaches of the Okavango Delta. Covering an area of 770 square miles (2,000 km²), its terrain consists of vast savannahs, dense woodlands, floodplains and lagoons, and is known for its high concentration of wildlife, and predators in particular.

Just as the privately owned concession areas in the Maasai Mara in Kenya allow certain activities that are off limits in the national parks, the Khwai Community Area also offers visitors some unique and exclusive safari experiences.

Night game drives are permitted, thanks to the private ownership of the concession. The wildlife here is as prolific as anywhere else, and you can expect to find some large prides of lions, as well as huge herds of elephants and buffaloes. It’s also a favourite haunt of the rare roan antelope.

Leopard eating his kill in a tree in Khwai Community Area, Botswana.
Leopard eating his kill in a tree in Khwai Community Area, Botswana.

The vast savannahs provide the ideal hunting terrain for cheetahs, who use the open spaces to their advantage as they chase down their prey. Meanwhile, the dense woodlands provide the perfect cover for leopards, whose stealth is their greatest advantage to take down their prey.

The Khwai River which bisects the entire area is teeming with hundreds of hippos and crocs. In fact, the constant presence of water ensures an abundance of all species, all year round, and it’s one of the best places in Botswana to spot wild dogs. 

Khwai’s diverse ecosystems also attract hundreds of bird species throughout the year, which include fish eagles and other raptors, kingfishers, hamerkops, saddle-billed storks and many more.

Hippos and a squacco heron on their backs in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Hippos and a squacco heron on their backs in Khwai Community Area, Botswana

Where to Spend the Night

There are a number of luxurious lodges to choose from here, most of them overlooking the Khwai River and providing non-stop game sightings from the comfort of your deckchair. If you’re on a mobile safari, your tour operator will have their favourite campsites, no doubt in some exceptional locations. Mobile safari is a great option for a truly immersive safari experience.

Part of the luxury mobile tented camping team looking after me for my Botswana safari
Part of the luxury mobile tented camping team looking after me for my Botswana safari. This was our dining tent where we ate delicious meals prepared by our private chef.

Tips for Travelling to Khwai

If you’ve chosen to drive to Khwai, have your camera ready at all times as you’ll see loads of wildlife on your journey! 

My Experience Journeying from Moremi to Khwai

En route from Moremi to Khwai we stopped for a picnic lunch on the banks of a small tributary, surrounded by elephants. It was absolutely magical being in their presence!

For one heartstopping moment, it felt as if we might be in danger, as one of the bulls was flapping his ears and grumbling, signalling for us to move along. Our experienced guide knew exactly what to do and advised us to back away towards our vehicle before clapping to scare the elephants away. We escaped safely, with a good story to tell. This is one of the standout moments of my Botswana safari experience. 

We entered the Khwai Concession in the late afternoon and passed through Khwai Village, which is near to the gate. The indigenous San people live here and own the concession. It was so wonderful to see people and wildlife living together side by side in harmony.

Bull elephant in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Bull elephant in Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Days 13 – 15: Khwai Community Area

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 0 hours

Khwai Community Area Map

Khwai Community Area Map (Botswana)
Khwai Community Area Map

You will spend the next two days enjoying morning and evening game drives, and you’ll also have an afternoon to enjoy a mokoro ride. This is an exhilarating experience you absolutely do not want to miss. Navigating silently through the water channels allows you to approach animals at close range and also to view myriads of birds nesting in the reeds and in the shallows.

Itinerary

Your days will start as they always do on safari – early! At the crack of dawn you’ll set out for a morning game drive before returning to your lodge or camp for lunch, a shower and a rest. Then, in the afternoon, you’ll take a mokoro ride, and will cap your day off with a night game drive.

Saddle-billed stalk in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Saddle-billed stalk in Khwai Community Area, Botswana

Tips for Visiting Khwai Community Area

  • Choose the dry winter months to visit Khwai. This is the time when the delta is flooded, which allows you to penetrate deeper into the jungle in a mokoro, getting as close to the wildlife as possible. It also allows you to see the Okavango from a unique low vantage point. 
  • Take every opportunity to go on night drives as you won’t be able to experience them anywhere else during this trip. You’ll see a different side of the wild, and in particular you’ll notice different animal behaviour, compared to what you’ve witnessed in the mornings and afternoons.

Where to Spend the Night

Since you’re spending only two nights here, it’s best to stay in the same place as the previous night, whether in a lodge or a mobile campsite.

Ella McKendrick checking the days photos after dinner at a mobile tented camp in Khwai Community Area, Botswana
Checking the days photos after dinner at a mobile tented camp in Khwai Community Area, Botswana

My Experience Visiting Khwai Community Area

Our campsite was Khwai Safari Grounds, which was located right on the banks of a lush tributary. We saw hippos, waterbuck, elephants, warthogs and impalas from our camp. I was so impressed with the skilfulness of our local guide, who used his intimate knowledge of the bush to follow two lionesses who were tracking a herd of buffalo one morning. We were able to spend hours following the lionesses all by ourselves, while the other vehicles went off in a different direction. 

Leopard in a tree after dark eating a kill from earlier in the day, Khwai Community Area, Botswana.
Leopard in a tree after dark eating a kill from earlier in the day, Khwai Community Area, Botswana. Khwai is a private concession which allows night-time game drives.

Our afternoon mokoro trip was so peaceful and provided a completely different, up close view of the waterways. Our guide and poler spotted the tiniest green frog – a sighting I would’ve missed on my own! 

On an unforgettable night drive, which was possible because this area is a private concession, we watched a male leopard as he leapt up a woodland tree and feasted on a kill.

You can watch a video of my experience visiting Khwai Conservation Area in the Okavango Delta below.

Day 16: Khwai Community Area to Savuti (Chobe National Park)

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 4 hour drive or a 30-45 minute flight

Having spent two full days in Khwai, today you travel in a north-easterly direction to the famous Savuti Marsh in the Chobe National Park. Once again, you can either take a short flight or a scenic 4 hour drive. The drive option is basically an extended game drive, as you’ll continue to have many memorable sightings along the way.

Savuti is the elephant ‘headquarters’ of Botswana, and has the densest population in the whole of Africa. This is especially so during the dry season when more elephants arrive from several neighbouring countries. Don’t be surprised if you have to stop a few times along the way for a herd to pass by.

Wild dog in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Wild dog in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Itinerary

If driving, you will leave early to allow for time to take in the scenery and stop for a picnic lunch somewhere quiet. Or, if you’re staying in a lodge, you’ll have a hot lunch waiting for you when you arrive. After a short rest you’ll embark on an afternoon game drive in Savuti.

About Savuti (Chobe National Park)

Savuti forms part of the greater Chobe National Park and lies on its western section. It has one of the densest concentrations of wildlife in the world, including some 50,000 elephants that trudge through this area every year. Let that figure sink in for a few seconds. 

Ella Mckendrick looking at ancient paintings in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Looking at ancient paintings in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

It also has a healthy population of predators, and possibly the bravest lions in Africa. They are among the very few prides that are not afraid of hunting elephants. They usually target the juveniles, working as a team first to separate the herd from the youngsters and then to take them down. But if the opportunity presents itself they will not hesitate to take down an adult too.

Four of the Big Five (no rhinos) and virtually all the diverse wildlife of Africa can be found in Chobe in huge numbers. The terrain consists of a mix of wide open savannahs, dense woodlands, wetlands and the mysterious Savuti channel which remains dry except when it mysteriously fills with water around once a decade.

Elephants in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Elephants in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Savuti is a hive of activity when the migratory zebra and wildebeest herds arrive en masse to graze on the evergreen savannahs. This is also prime big cat time, as lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas and wild dogs come out to hunt during this time of plenty. 

Savuti is also known for its rich bird life with over 450 species having been recorded. Around the water you’ll find the usual suspects: fish eagles, kingfishers, secretary birds, herons, darters and skimmers. Strutting around on the ground amongst the tall grasses you will find ground hornbills, black korhaan and Kori bustards, which are the largest African flying birds. 

Savuti is one of the least visited areas of Chobe, providing a more private safari experience. This is due to its being out of the way of most visitors who normally come through Kasane on the eastern and opposite side of Chobe. But since you will have come from Khwai, Savuti falls perfectly in your path.

Wild dog pups n Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Wild dog pups n Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

This area is governed by the enigmatic Savuti Channel, which in ancient times was a massive lake. Like the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, tectonic plate movement caused the waters to drain away, leaving only the Savuti River behind.

The water level of the river is unpredictable, sometimes flowing well, and other times drying up for long periods, which has an often catastrophic effect on the landscape and wildlife. The hundreds of dead trees lining its banks bear testimony to this fluctuation. The river disappeared completely in 1982 and only started to flow again some 26 years later. It has now dried up again and been dry for many years. 

The greater Chobe National Park is Botswana’s most visited park, not only because of its abundance of wildlife and spectacular scenery, but also for the hundreds of miles of riverfront and navigable waterways. This is the perfect place for boat cruises and luxurious houseboat safaris.

Where to Spend the Night

If you’re on a mobile safari, your guide will set up camp somewhere scenic. If you have a higher budget, there are a number of lodges to choose from inside this park.

Camp fire at camp in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Camp fire at camp in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Tips for Travelling to Savuti

  • If you’re on a mobile safari, it’s best to pack your bags the night before you leave because the crews prefer to load them on the vehicles early in the morning before they start dismantling the tents. 
  • Ask your guide to show you the so-called ‘Dead Tree Forest’ on the way, just east of Khwai. A vast expanse of dead thorn trees in the middle of an otherwise healthy landscape, it’s rather an eerie scene. It is thought that the trees died from elephant damage or from standing in water for a long period, or even from a fire scorching off their barks.
Dead tree forest in Khwai Community Area, Botswana.
Dead tree forest in Khwai Community Area, Botswana. The dead trees are the result of elephant damage. Our guide joked that elephants are the second most destructive species after humans.

My Experience Journeying from Khwai to Savuti

We drove from Khwai to Savuti, stopping for a picnic lunch beside the Mababe Depression on the way. It was astonishing to see how flat and seemingly barren the landscape was here. We arrived in Savuti in the late afternoon and went on a game drive straight away, where we came across an African wild dog den. This was an incredible experience as seeing wild dogs was the ultimate goal of my Botswana trip. 

Ella Mckendrick in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Over the moon at my first wild dog sighting in in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Days 17 – 19: Savuti (Chobe National Park)

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 0 hours

You have two full days to explore the various landscapes of Savuti and experience its abundant wildlife. 

Savuti (Chobe National Park) Map

Savuti (Chobe National Park) Map (Botswana)
Savuti (Chobe National Park) Map

Itinerary

As in the other parks, your morning game drives will be from 6.30 to 11.30 am. The grasslands and river valleys are where you’ll find thousands of zebras, wildebeest, buffaloes, giraffes, warthogs, impala, kudu, roan, puku and tsessebe, the fastest antelope in Africa. This is also where you’re most likely to spot a cheetah or two and perhaps witness a high-speed chase. These cats are the Formula 1 racers of the savannah, reaching incredible speeds in seconds flat.

Sunset in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Sunset in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

As the day warms up, it’s best to head for the wooded areas, rocky hillocks and watering holes. These are the favourite haunts of lions and leopards, which rest in the dense bushes during the warmest part of the day.

After lunch and a short rest at your camp or lodge, you’ll be back on the road again at 3.30 pm for your evening game drive. This is the time when predators start venturing out to look for their supper and you have better chances of witnessing a kill.

You will return to your camp at around 6.30 ,where you’ll enjoy your dinner and spend a few hours relaxing at your lodge or under the skies at your camp, swapping stories and photos with other guests you’ll meet on your epic trip.

Lioness in golden hour in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Lioness in golden hour in Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Tips for Visiting Savuti (Chobe National Park)

  • Take malaria precautions such as insect repellent and anti-malaria medication.
  • As with all other locations, camps and lodges are unfenced and great care must be taken at all times when wandering around your camp, especially after dark. Hippos and hyenas are regular visitors at night, particularly in camps near water.
  • If you’re a bird lover, the best time to come here is during the summer months when thousands of migrant birds are present. If you’re here during April you’ll see tens of thousands of the tiny quelea finches flitting like storm clouds across the skies. This is regarded as the world’s most abundant bird species.

Where to Spend the Night

Since you’re spending only 3 nights in Savuti, it’s best to keep things simple and remain in the same lodge or camp for your entire stay.

Delicious dinner at our luxury mobile tented camp, Botswana
Delicious dinner at our luxury mobile tented camp, Botswana

My Experience Visiting Savuti (Chobe National Park)

There are several amazing experiences that stand out in my mind when I think of Savuti. One is witnessing packs of wild dogs frolicking outside their den and charging down a riverbed tracking a scent. Another is seeing the incredible Bushman paintings of Bushman Hill on my last night. It was a steep scramble up the hill, but definitely worth it. It was incredible laying eyes on paintings of an elephant, eland and sable antelope which are thought to be thousands of years old.

You can watch a video of my experience visiting Savuti in Chobe National Park below.

Day 20: Chobe Riverfront

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 4 hour drive or 30-45 minute flight

Having spent your last night in Savuti, today you set off on the last leg of your Botswana safari adventure, to the Chobe Riverfront in the town of Kasane. 

Itinerary

Your day will start with an early morning breakfast and then a 4 hour drive or a short flight to Kasane, which is located on the north-easternmost corner of Botswana, bordering Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. The drive will be an extension of a game drive, taking you through some of the most superb landscapes of Chobe, where you can expect to continue having amazing animal sightings. After lunch at a restaurant in Kasane, you’ll take a spectacular sunset boat cruise along the famed Chobe Riverfront.

Ella Mckendrick on a Chobe Riverfront safari
Me on a Chobe Riverfront safari

After all the driving on the dusty tracks in the bush on 4×4 vehicles for many days, cruising along the river and viewing wildlife from a boat will seem like a welcome change. The boats are completely open-sided providing panoramic views in all directions. 

You’ll pass places not accessible by road and will see an abundance of game quenching their thirst on the shoreline. Don’t be surprised if you see elephants splashing about in the shallows or crossing the river to graze on the different islands. You’ll also likely see herds of hippos wallowing in the water and crocs sunbathing on the muddy banks, both unperturbed by your presence.

After your cruise you can choose either to begin your journey back home or spend the night at a lodge in Kasane.

The African darter (Anhinga rufa) spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari
The African darter (Anhinga rufa) spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari

About Chobe Riverfront

The Chobe Riverfront is the heart and soul of Kasane, bustling with cruise boats and people. The Riverfront is lined with dozens of hotels and lodges to accommodate the thousands of visitors to the Chobe National Park. Positioned at the meeting point of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers, Kasane is also the gateway to the spectacular Victoria Falls, just across the Zimbabwe and Zambia border. 

Apart from offering boat cruises and access to three countries and the majestic Victoria Falls, there are a number of other attractions to keep visitors to Kasane busy for a few days. You can go and reel in a tigerfish, see the historic Baobab Tree Prison, or the Kasane Hot Springs.

Crocodile spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari
Crocodile spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari

Tips for a Chobe Riverfront Boat Cruise

Despite being an evening boat cruise, the sun can still be fierce here, so wear a hat and sunscreen until the sun has completely set.

For safety don’t hang your arms out of the boat, as there are crocodiles in the water.

Cruises last for about three hours, so take a few snacks and some water too.

Hippos spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari
Hippos spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari

Where to Spend the Night

If you’ve decided to stay over in Kasane, you’ll have no shortage of lodges or guest houses to choose from. The River View Lodge is worth checking out. It’s a 4-star hotel situated on the riverbanks, with superb views from the garden sundeck and pool area. Sunsets across the river are simply breathtaking.

The pool in my accommodation near Chobe Riverfront, Botswana
The pool in my accommodation near Chobe Riverfront, Botswana

My Experience on a Chobe Riverfront Boat Cruise

A 3-hour boat cruise was the ultimate way to bring my time in Botswana to a close. The boat was a small yet spacious motorboat with a canopy to keep us cool. We chugged along, with Botswana on our left and Namibia on our right. 

Our boat driver was very keen to give us a good view of some massive Nile crocodiles, and I held my breath as he took us right alongside a huge croc, which was just a metre or so away from me. I was a little nervous! Later on the same thing happened with an even bigger crocodile, a close call that coincided with the boat’s motor sputtering and refusing to start for a few minutes! 

The best sighting of all however was of a group of elephants crossing the river. We watched as they wandered across, water up to their shoulders, before they emerged on a grassy island in the middle of the river.

Water monitor spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari
Water monitor spotted on a Chobe Riverfront safari

Day 21: Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

Total drive time (excluding game drives): 1 hour drive

Today is the grand finale of your epic Botswana safari, and we end it in style with a visit to one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World – the iconic Victoria Falls. A mere hour’s drive away from Kasane, you just cannot come so close and not go to see them!

Itinerary

First thing in the morning, you drive for 10 minutes to the border post to purchase your visa, before crossing over to Zimbabwe. It’s recommended that you arrive early at the border to avoid the long queues that often form.

You should also have USD cash on you as the card machines often don’t work. A single entry visa is sufficient if you only want to view the falls from Zimbabwe. If you want to view them from the Zambian side as well, you will need to purchase a multi-entry visa (known as the KAZA Univisa), which will cost a little more ($50). This will allow you entry into Zambia and back into Zimbabwe. Luckily, the whole process is fairly quick and simple.

Ella Mckendrick at Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Once you cross the border, you’ll drive for an hour before arriving at the falls. Entry to the falls is $50 per person. To get a proper look and soak in the magnificent scenery, allow yourself at least 3 hours there. There are a number of viewing platforms to see the different sections of the falls, and each one is better than the other. You reach them by walking along footpaths surrounded by rainforest and an endless wall of mist, while feeling the earth trembling under your feet as you approach the gorge-end viewpoints. 

If you’re visiting the Zambian side, the Knife Edge Bridge on the eastern corner of the falls is a must-see. Trekking cautiously along the ‘knife edge’ precipice 100 metres above the gorge is as exhilarating as it sounds, as this is one of the deepest and most dramatic sections of the falls. While you’re on the Zambian side, and if you have some fire in your belly, you can take a dip in the famous Devil’s Pool. In this rock pool you’ll float just a few feet from the edge of the falls. Have someone take a picture of you doing that, as people may not believe you when you tell the story. 

Ella Mckendrick at Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

There are several other ways of seeing and experiencing the falls, such as taking a scenic helicopter ride and viewing them from above. You could also take a boat cruise a little upstream and, although you may not see the actual falls, you get to see the ‘smoke’ rising and hear the deafening roar from the safety of your boat. And, if you’re still feeling adventurous, there is no better place to kayak, white-water raft, zip-line or bungee jump than Victoria Falls. You would, however, need to pre-book some of these activities.

There are also miles of hiking trails above and below the falls through rainforest scenery, leading you to several famous viewpoints such as Boiling Point, Devil’s Cataract, Rainbow Falls, Horseshoe Falls, and Victoria Falls Bridge. All offer legendary views from every angle imaginable. End your visit with a meal at the famous Lookout Café with a view to die for, or at Baines Restaurant, overlooking Devil’s Cataract.

In the afternoon, you’ll return to your lodge, where your Botswana safari adventure has finally come to an end.

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

About Victoria Falls

The local name for Victoria Falls is  ‘Mosi-oa Tunya’, which means ‘the smoke that thunders’. Along with Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and Table Mountain in Cape Town, South Africa, the Victoria Falls are one of the most iconic sights on the continent of Africa. 

To put it in numbers, during and just after the peak rainy season, 500 million cubic metres of water plummet 108 metres over the edge of the falls every hour, across a distance of 1.7 kms. The columns of spray or ‘smoke’ can be seen, and the roar or ‘thunder’ can be heard, from up to 40 kms away. The falls are a sight that will remain etched in your mind forever.

Ella Mckendrick at Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Although known by earlier European geographers before the 19th century, Victoria Falls were first identified by the Scottish missionary David Livingstone in 1855. He made his ‘discovery’ after being canoed to an island now known as ‘Livingstone Island’ a short distance upstream from the falls. He immediately named the falls in honour of Queen Victoria, who was Britain’s monarch. 

A large, 10.5 feet (3.2 m) bronze statue of the famous missionary was unveiled by his nephew and ex- Prime Minister of Southern Rhodesia in 1934 on the western section overlooking Devil’s Cataract. The statue still stands today, despite several efforts to have it removed, for two contradictory reasons. In 2001 Zimbabwean war veterans wanted it removed, claiming it reminded them of their colonial past, while just 3 years later, the Zambian Government wanted the statue moved to their side, to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Livingstone’s famous discovery. The local community’s resistance ensured that David Livingstone remained in his original position, overlooking his discovery.

Statue of Dave Livingstone, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Statue of Dave Livingstone, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Tips for Visiting Victoria Falls

  • Bring a poncho or a good waterproof coat, or both. But no matter what you wear, you will still get drenched to the bone. A towel to dry yourself afterwards may be the most practical thing to bring.
  • Make sure your camera, phone and any other electronic gadgets you have are wrapped in a waterproof bag.
  • If time does not allow, or you’re finding it a bit of a hassle to see the falls from both sides, don’t stress too much as the views from the Zimbabwean side are truly epic too. You’ll also save yourself the $20 entry fee. 
  • The flow of water over the falls varies with each season and time of year. Devil’s Pool can only be visited when the water levels are lower, as it is unsafe when the falls are fuller.
  • The best time to see the falls themselves is when they are at their fullest and most dramatic, just after the rainy season, usually between March and May. The play of billowing mist and sun throws rainbows across the falls – a photographer’s dream!
  • Incidentally, during the drought of 2024 the falls dried up completely at one stage, exposing a gigantic, barren, rocky canyon and casting an unnatural and eerie silence across the entire area. Even in that state it remained a popular destination, with many visitors flocking to witness this rare and unfamiliar sight. Even baboons were seen looking bewildered and perplexed as they scrambled cautiously over boulders on the dry river bed. 
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Where to Spend the Night

After your visit to the falls, you may choose to drive back to your lodge in Kasane, or stay over at any of the many lodges around the falls. Alternatively, you can stay over in the town of Livingstone in Zambia and fly home from there.

My Accommodation in Zambia, the Radisson Blu Mosi-Oa-Tunya, Livingstone
My Accommodation in Zambia, the Radisson Blu Mosi-Oa-Tunya, Livingstone

My Experience Visiting Victoria Falls

We started our visit to Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side, with a 3-hour walk. There are 16 viewing points, and each one is more spectacular than the last, which can be hard to believe!  My favourite was viewing point 6 as, in my opinion, it gives the most magnificent view of the falls.

I visited in June, which is when the falls are extremely full. At some points it was so wet that it felt as if I was standing under a cold shower! I was soaked to the bone, but it was a lot of fun! 

My Accommodation in Zambia, the Radisson Blu Mosi-Oa-Tunya, Livingstone
My Accommodation in Zambia, the Radisson Blu Mosi-Oa-Tunya, Livingstone

I stayed in the Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya Livingstone hotel after my trip to Victoria Falls. It is a beautiful modern hotel right on the Zambezi River. You can even see the mist from the falls from the hotel.

You can watch a video of my experience visiting Victoria Falls below.

Recommended Booking Options For Your Itinerary

Safari with local tour operator

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Visit safarisbyella.com for free quotes from trustworthy local tour companies I use to book my own trips.

Ella Mckendrick on safari with lions

Final Thoughts

You’ll be hard pressed to find a more memorable safari experience than this 3-week itinerary through one of my personal favourite countries in the world.

From the vast, bone-dry and dusty expanses of the Kalahari to the dense, evergreen forests and the long, twisting, blue waterways of the Okavango Delta, all abounding with wildlife, this is the ultimate African safari experience. Throw in truly exceptional guides and trackers, and it simply cannot get any better than this.

If three weeks is a little longer than you have time for you can still visit Botswana’s highlights in a 10-day itinerary or if you’re looking for a slightly more budget-friendly destination, why not consider a 3-week Tanzania itinerary.

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